Flappykillmore: I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Eclipse, the only noise it makes is a soft humming
sound when I turn the key. (Fuel Pump Engaging) Then after trying over &
over it eventually turns over & starts. Then it runs great from there! Done
this for the past week, turned it on about 10 times, check engine light
just came on today saying "Crank Shaft Sensor", but I was told the car
would turn & run like sh*t. So we've bought a new starter & we're gonna put
that in. What do you think? Our local mechanics said there is no way it's
the sensor if it's running fine. If it was the crankshaft sensor then the
car wouldn't turn over, but it'd crank. But it doesn't even do that so I
assume it's the starter right? Replaced the Clutch switch, started 30 times
consecutively, then failed later that night. So assume it was just a lucky
part of the starter. Suggestions?
Brian Hunter: have a 99 5 spd cavalier 2.2, when i push my clutch in, also in neutral, i
turn my key over and nothing. no turn over. new starter, battery is fine,
have been having to push jump it lately, im thinking neutral safety switch,
but not completely sure. any ideas?
goheat77: I have an exytra bolt, its an unloader wire and everthing else you have
there. ground, unloader wire, ignition wire, and big red wire. how do you
dianose that one?
Todd Dolce: ImRamro,.... Ok....I got the no start today and I did as you said and tried
to start it in Neutral......It WORKED!! I was shocked! So.....I'm
guessing it is the neutral safety switch! Is that a difficult and/or
costly fix for this old 97 F150?
Gail B: Thank you. I think I can show this to my mechanic tomorrow and it will save
us a trip to have Autozone check it for us.
robert jernigan: I have a 96 Nissan Sentra that i had a cranking problem with, i would turn
the key and nothing! I changed the neutral saftey switch first and still
nothing, so then i bought battery cables and same story nothing lol when i
came across this video is when i bought a tester light and tested the
ignition wire as shown in the vid, i had no power going to the wire so i
purchased a new tumbler/ign switch installed it and she fired right up!!!
Thanks for the help...
Todd Dolce: OK,....I will try that. Thanks.
tpcoachfix: The bare copper wire IS NOT a ground wire! It feeds battery power to the
starter motor from the battery feed post on the solenoid when you turn the
key to the start position and the solenoid becomes energized. The starter
motor gets it ground from the engine block.
Lilsmf06: Spent too much time explaining the same crap over and over and over.
andres bee: Thnx for the vid. I sometimes have this issue with my 99 buick century. It
struggles to fully crank so I step on the gas whichbit helps most of times.
I hear a grindin soumd and thumping at the same time plus white smokes
comes out the muffler. When i do have problems i have to keep mybfoot on
the gas sonit wont turn off. Sometimes when its failin tonturn on it would
just click once and i would have to leave it alone for days. A mechanic
read my starter at 75
ImRamro: Sounds like the solenoid that is mounted to the starter. The solenoid gets
energized and throws the gear out to turn the flywheel. It could be
something else, but my Cadillac is having the same problem and it is my
solenoid. You can test it with a voltometer, but a delay is usually the
solenoid taking a long time to energize. I would replace the starter or
remove the starter and replace the solenoid.
ImRamro: Sounds like the fusable link? The battery should have a wire that is
attached to the positive cable. This wire is not the super thick main
cable, but a heavy gauge wire about 1/2 as thick as a pencil. This is a
wire that has a fuse inside of it, this wire is called the fusible link.
All it is is a heavy wire with a fuse or thinner wire inside that will blow
to save your components. It should run to the starter solenoid. The wire
should have a lump in it. I had the same problem once, good luck.
ImRamro: If the car cranks, then the battery is still working. I would check for
spark first. You can do this with a spark tester or removing one spark plug
wire and sticking a screw driver in the spark plug boot. Then lat the plug
wire with the screw driver inside it real close to something metal on the
engine. When you crank the car, you should see a small blue spark jumping
from the screw driver to the piece of metal. Don't touch the screw driver
metal when you do this or it will give you a shock.
ImRamro: Thanks for watching and the comment. I have worked on all kinds of cars and
I still need to watch YouTube videos to work problems out.
billbo1154: my starter runs all the time even whene the key is off. help.
Triston Walker: yes the motor sputtering like it wants to die
ImRamro: The intermittent starting problem can be the neutral safety switch? The
easiest way to check it would be to test the wire like we did in the video.
#1 You can try moving the gear shifter rapidly through the gears, then
return to park and turn the key. #2 You can also try and start the car in
neutral? If one of these two things start the car, it may be the neutral
safety switch? It could be something else of course like battery cables or
the ignition? You can make your own shims out of alum can
Timothy James Dean: Thanks Ramro - if it's that simple, I'll be delighted! I hadn't thought to
search for a fuse in the line itself. I pulled and checked all the
heavy-duty fuses I could see in the under-hood fuse box; 30 - 50 amp, and
none of them were blown. I'll let you know.
ImRamro: When it sounds like it is missing, is the motor sputtering like it wants to
die or the flywheel grinding? Get back to me on the missing thing and we
can work it out.
ImRamro: Yes, the principle is the same. If the motor is cranking, but not starting
then it may not be the starter? If the car is turning over/cranking then
the starter is doing its job. Can you describe the problem a little better
and maybe we can solve it?
ImRamro: The most common problem would be a neutral safety switch, but that is just
a guess? I would have someone who is a little mechanical take a tester
light or ohm reader and check the small wire on the starter. This will tell
you if you are getting power to the starter, If you read anything near 12
volts then your ignition and neutral safety are good and it is the starter
again. If there is no power reaching the starter then it is in the ignition
or neutral safety switch. Try starting it in neutral?
kenonehunna: hay everytime i try to start my car i here a clickin sound...its been
settin for 2 days now in its still clickin i think i just need a new starter
Arturo Menchaca: I have a 95 Chevy Pickup...it seems that the starter stays engaged with the
key in the on position. I changed the ignition cylinder first, because in
the past, the truck would crank to start when the key was turned back to
the accessory position. That didn't eliminate the constant crank. Replaced
the starter and solenoid(bench test failed) but the condition remains the
same. I'm guessing the Ignition Switch would be next, but would hate to go
through that trouble for nothing. Any ideas? Thx
Mark Forrest: I have 2000 Nissan Maxima.. when i go to turn it over, all dash lights come
but all i get is 1 click thats it!! Please help email me at
firstname.lastname@example.org for any info that u may have...
RockinDigger1: yes the solenoid would be the easiest for me ha i will have them test it
more than once
Eric Williams: My 94 caddilac deville have a starting problem. Only when the engine is
completely cold , the car car starts rite up. So the temperature of the
engine is effecting my starter motor. So is it the selonoid or that
armature and pinion gear?
101Unit101: Hey there I just recently had my starter replaced and now that it's been
replaced it makes a nasty squeel or it seems to struggle to get a grasp to
roll the engine... It does turn on now but I feel like it shouldn't be
doing this... I'm not sure if it's kind of like a break in type thing cause
it's brand new but yea just wondering if I should be concerned. Also my
remote starter doesn't seem to work anymore?! Is there something that might
be correlated to that?
Rello E: Hey what would be the proper way to jump start the solenoid with
ImRamro: The dash shuts off when you turn the key? If the dash shuts off when you
turn the key then it sounds like a ground wire? Get back to me please.
Melissa Kio: Question: 1996 Ford Taurus, 3.0. Car will only start if it's in drive,
reverse, overdrive; however it will not start in park. I have to put the
emergency break on, to put it in park or try really hard to get it in park.
What are your thoughts? Thanks:)
tino tino: This is incorrect. The fact the light turned on, doesn't mean your STARTER
is bad. It could mean the solenoid is bad. The ignition wire goes to the
solenoid... which is a relay basically.... so if that solenoid is bad, it
will not provide he starter with any positive (+) power. You have to do one
more test to determine if the starter is bad or if it's the solenoid.
sandalanalyst: ANNNNND it could just be a bad solenoid.. if you tested that other bigger
terminal that goes into the brushes when you turn the key and its NOT going
hot.. its just a bad solenoid.. if it is going hot.. and the starters still
not doing anything its the starter.... those solenoids are replaceable that
are mounted to the starter too.. some places might tell you not but you can
get just the solenoid
ImRamro: It is probably the starter going out. The solenoid that is mounted to the
starter as (one unit) is probably going bad. These type of starters can
give you problems for a year or two before they break completely. The
easiest thing would be to clean the battery terminals and battery cables, a
bad starter wire or starter overheating can cause this problem too. I am
pretty sure it is the starter and AutoZone or Oreiley's can test the
starter for you for free.
alfro0925: @ImRamro did you get stumped by my question, or did you just forget after
you got home from work?
orgaomet: I have a 74 international scout and I installed a new battery. It started
just fine, but the next day the new battery was dead! I charged the battery
and started it again. This time, I disconected the battery cables to see if
the alternator is bad; the engine and electrical kept running after
disconecting the battery wires. Can the the started solenoid be bad? Any
suggestions? THANK YOU!
moofushu: Is there a way to diagnose when a starter is GOING bad? I recently changed
my starter and had to change it in the street because that is where the car
wouldn't crank anymore. If I knew it the last time I cranked it I would
have parked it in the driveway. The only thing I noticed was it cranked
differently the last two times I started my truck. The only thing was I
thought I had more time. I'm just looking for a way to catch it before it
completely goes out.
ImRamro: It should not squeal like that and needs no break in period. Is it a
grinding sound or a high pitch squeal? Does the sound occur just after the
car starts or does the sound start the instant the key is turned? Sounds
like the problem can be the new starter is faulty which happens often, or
the starter needs to be shimmed? If the sound is grinding then the starter
may be grinding on the flywheel and the starter needs shims? Autozone will
test the starter for free if you want to remove it?
ImRamro: I have to be honest here, I have never worked on a Fiat before? The idol
going up and down sounds like a loose hose or some vacuum leak caused by an
unplugged or damaged small diameter hose in the engine compartment, or
loose intake manifold. The car not starting after warming?? The compression
could be extremely low caused by pistons or rings, you can test it cheaply
with a compression tester. The starter/solenoid could be getting too hot
and need to be (shielded) insulated or replaced.?
BumpinThatBass: i've got a problem! ive got an '07 monte carlo, when i turn the key to
start it does nothing "at all" i have to hold for about 3 seconds for the
car to start. it used to fire right up immidiately once i turned to start.
what do you think is causing this delay?
ImRamro: Mine tested fine a few times, but failed on the third try. If they test it
and say it is good, just please have them test it 3 times. Most people just
buy the whole starter, but you could just replace the solenoid if you
wanted? I would replace the whole unit, just to be safe. Good luck.
ImRamro: Do any of the lights turn on or anything else?
ImRamro: If the starter is making a horrible high pitched grinding sound then it
could be one of three things. 1. the starter gear is worn or not engaging
in the flywheel, the solution could be replacing the gear or just buying a
new starter. 2. The starter is weak and not throwing the gear far enough to
engage the flywheel, the solution a new starter. 3. The flywheel is missing
teeth and you will need a new flywheel. 4. The starter needs a shim (thin
piece of metal) or may be loose.
sandalanalyst: the starter is grounded through the engine block.. that other stud with the
copper going into the starter is the power to the brushes in the starter
when inside the solenoid the electro magnet is charged it movers the
connector up to touch those two terminals together.. thus supplying power
to the brushes to turn the starter.. but the starter is grounded through
the engine block, that terminal has nothing to with ground besides
completing the circuit.. might help you understand it better
Todd Dolce: I'm ready to give up on my ol' 97 F150. It will give me a no-start/no crank
about every 2 weeks and I can only get it started by using a screw driver
on the Solenoid,....then after that it's fine for 2 weeks or so. I have
replaced the starter, the solenoid and the battery to no avail. Now I'm
stuck with a truck that I can't trust. I will say that once in awhile I
have noticed that you can actually take the key out of the ignition even
while it's running. What a weird truck!
ImRamro: The ignition should send power to the fuel pump, but this is weird? The
fact that the shop has not solved the problem in two weeks is also strange?
There could be something in the fuel pump wiring, or the E.C.M (computer)
that is causing this? What year, make, and model is the truck? I would be
more than happy to try and do some research for ya. Please send any other
info on what it was doing when it died. The ignition causing this is not
Brandon Brugman: I have a 96 Camry that once in awhile wont crank, but after sometime
(minutes-2 days..) it will start again...ive replaced relay, starter, and
ImRamro: Please explain? Is the starter constantly spinning 24 hours a day? I know
you would have to disconnect the battery, but could you explain more in
Jon Knott: I have the exact same problem. Let me know if you figure anything out...
saturnv3: SOLenoid. Not SELenoid