spacep0d: Wouldn't a front stand prevent the spring from wanting to shoot the fork
cap into the ceiling?
dustin ayers: measuring in an Erlenmeyer flask?Somewhere a chemist is pulling his hair
Kalle Stropp: Made my day start with a big laugh, jesus…
Taylor Darr: Thumb wrench, really?
salahmb: suzuki volusia 2004
salahmb: Is it possible to oil used for bicycle Sazuki
And the number on the box
Dave Bones: cheers for this. have you done any videos about ignition coils and
zaldierna: this is carlos from barcelona, spain: very helpful. extra trick: not only
my oil was dissapeared after 10 years, but the springs were quite dead too.
a guy commented i could fit a piece of pipe between the spring and the
upper bolt (the one u have to remove carefully) compressing the old spring
and re-inforcing it. idid, i used a regular iron pipe, 30 mm diameter,
cutted the pipe in 2 pieces of 50 mm long, fitted'em and compressed the
springs. the thing works well.
Eddie .C: If you put the bike on a motorcycle jack. It wouldnt spring up like that.
Some will still have some spring pressure on them. Most will not. But very
very nice video.
MrBurnTec: rachet spannerzzz
austpom333: If you have a welding helmet around it would be good for removing the top
russianoleg: Please Put your motarola phone on charge!
jennylover456: @buckydurddle well it is an offbrand ill start with that but what i can
remember is its an 04' QIPAI 200gy if im remembering correctly
Carlos Lima: ITS BETTER WITH A PIPE
rawhide901: buckydurddle - thats just such an all American name! :) Great video. Very
Lori: Thank You!!!!!
congey2002: The Scientific instrument you refer to is a 250 ml Conical Flask. :-)
suzigixxer1000: HELP PLEASE! ive just bought second hand forks for my 1988 fz 600 as
originals were blowing seals within a week and were bouncy and sink badly
when the front brake was pulled i got the other pair and seals are fine no
pitting where seals run there straight and the same length but id say there
just as "bouncy" im unsure what to do could an oil change solve this? There
supposed to use 10w but i assume the oil thats in them will be about 20yo
and i was going to put fresh 20w in them can you please
DrenalineRush927: Thank you for this awesome straight forward video!
burning1rr: It's very possible that the cap bolt was difficult to remove because it was
being pinched by the upper triple clamp. I'd generally advise loosening the
upper triple before removing the fork caps, to avoid buggering up the
threads on the cap bolt.
MARK ROBSON: Thanks very much for this video it's going to help alot.
Jens Eskildsen: Loosen the bolts in the tripleclamp that holds the forklegs in place. When
theese are tightened, the forkcaps are very hard to remove (thats why you
needed the extention)
Brian Sodergren: Not to sound like a preacher, but adding the wrench onto the handle of your
ratchet is a good way to wreck your ratchet. Best to use a breaker bar.
Just my .02...
David Harris: All motorcycles need to have the fork and shock oil changed periodically
YMMV. The oil breaks down and gets dirty. Fresh fork oil makes the bike
feel like new again.
CycleSyckness: Anytime you're working around your gas tank better put a TOWEL over it! for
Jose Mendez: Great way to break a finger or strip the soft aluminum threads. Loosen the
clamps, Use your extension and oput some weight on it
chuppa1chups: One of the reasons that top cap was so difficult to remove was because the
upper pinch bolt is pinching the threads. Loosening those up may help with
that problem, as I remember the top caps shouldn't be so snug to require a
breaker bar. Also, a bathing towel is on my tank whenever I do work.
Jake Pender: guys got a really nice thumb wrench
Steve K: hit the ceiling of the gradge....
bordone: breaker bar man breaker bar! go buy a 1/2 inch drive bar and set it on
there and tap it with a mallot or dead blow or whatever you have laying
around. In the long run its a lot better then cracking the gears in your
ratchet from breaking high torque so many times
john marquez: my service manual doesnt say anything about changing fork oil. i own a 07
suzuki gsxr 750. do i need to replace it on mines aswell and if so how
jennylover456: if i cant find a drainplug what do i do?
morgan sampson: One flex pipe, two grease nipples with mods, oil container, drain oil,
connect nipple and pipe to drain plug, other nipple to oil container, pump
bike front up and down slow, with jack on engine, air out, oil in, quick
change with nipple for drain plug, JD
shadow0imposter: As a general rule of thumb you should replace your fork oil every 2 years.
suzuki manual suck ass dont they lol
DeathMediaTM: Gone Fishing
justinthor: most of the time my took bends if the bolt is to tight so that trick would
not work for me, PB blaster helps though.
shwslapdaddy: Geeks should not own tools!!!!!
Carlos Lima: BETTER WITH A PISE OF PIPE
justin76bmw: i hav a 82 gs750, it has valve stems on the top, the forks are dry, i want
to try a seal scraper b4 i tear it apart, but don't know how to fill them
with oil. pretty sure the stems are for nitrogen , not oil rite? i just
need to know where the oil goes.
rafa6694: Tens que ir comprar ferramenta melhor! MADE IN CHINA nao é la uma boa
IDEIA, DEPOIS ERA MELHOR LEVANTAR A MOTO,VE LA SE NAO TE ALEIJAS?
mayassa58: Your suppose to loosen up the top triple clamp bolt, you wouldn't need to
extend your wrench.
yhiissuchbs: A good stand with the front wheel off the ground is cheaper than repairing
damage to the gas tank and/or stripped threads of top caps ~ Lengthens the
fork and unloads the spring at least by the amount of weight of the front
of the bike if not by 90% of the assembled preload. We all short cut at
times but please advise viewers to use the right tool for the job ~ Invest
in 3 cheap tools rather than one that is 3 times the price that must be
misused. And +1 for PB Blaster for freeing bolts.