chuppa1chups: One of the reasons that top cap was so difficult to remove was because the upper pinch bolt is pinching the threads. Loosening those up may help with that problem, as I remember the top caps shouldn't be so snug to require a breaker bar.
Also, a bathing towel is on my tank whenever I do work.
Carlos Lima: BETTER WITH A PISE OF PIPE
yhiissuchbs: A good stand with the front wheel off the ground is cheaper than repairing damage to the gas tank and/or stripped threads of top caps ~ Lengthens the fork and unloads the spring at least by the amount of weight of the front of the bike if not by 90% of the assembled preload.
We all short cut at times but please advise viewers to use the right tool for the job ~ Invest in 3 cheap tools rather than one that is 3 times the price that must be misused. And +1 for PB Blaster for freeing bolts.
justinthor: most of the time my took bends if the bolt is to tight so that trick would not work for me, PB blaster helps though.
Carlos Lima: ITS BETTER WITH A PIPE
austpom333: If you have a welding helmet around it would be good for removing the top bolt
MARK ROBSON: Thanks very much for this video it's going to help alot.
DrenalineRush927: Thank you for this awesome straight forward video!
Jake Pender: guys got a really nice thumb wrench
bordone: breaker bar man breaker bar! go buy a 1/2 inch drive bar and set it on there and tap it with a mallot or dead blow or whatever you have laying around. In the long run its a lot better then cracking the gears in your ratchet from breaking high torque so many times
shwslapdaddy: Geeks should not own tools!!!!!
DeathMediaTM: Gone Fishing
bma852: Anytime you're working around your gas tank better put a TOWEL over it! for protection
Jose Mendez: Great way to break a finger or strip the soft aluminum threads.
Loosen the clamps, Use your extension and oput some weight on it
justin76bmw: i hav a 82 gs750, it has valve stems on the top, the forks are dry, i want to try a seal scraper b4 i tear it apart, but don't know how to fill them with oil. pretty sure the stems are for nitrogen , not oil rite? i just need to know where the oil goes.
Dave Harris: All motorcycles need to have the fork and shock oil changed periodically YMMV. The oil breaks down and gets dirty. Fresh fork oil makes the bike feel like new again.
morgan sampson: One flex pipe, two grease nipples with mods, oil container, drain oil, connect nipple and pipe to drain plug, other nipple to oil container, pump bike front up and down slow, with jack on engine, air out, oil in, quick change with nipple for drain plug, JD
ranchocopper: Thank You!!!!!
Jens Eskildsen: Loosen the bolts in the tripleclamp that holds the forklegs in place. When theese are tightened, the forkcaps are very hard to remove (thats why you needed the extention)
Brian Sodergren: Not to sound like a preacher, but adding the wrench onto the handle of your ratchet is a good way to wreck your ratchet. Best to use a breaker bar. Just my .02...
shadow0imposter: As a general rule of thumb you should replace your fork oil every 2 years. suzuki manual suck ass dont they lol
nuggetzor: hit the ceiling of the gradge....
john marquez: my service manual doesnt say anything about changing fork oil. i own a 07 suzuki gsxr 750. do i need to replace it on mines aswell and if so how often?
jennylover456: well it is an offbrand ill start with that but what i can remember is its an 04' QIPAI 200gy if im remembering correctly
jennylover456: if i cant find a drainplug what do i do?
russianoleg: Please Put your motarola phone on charge!
mayassa58: Your suppose to loosen up the top triple clamp bolt, you wouldn't need to extend your wrench.
congey2002: The Scientific instrument you refer to is a 250 ml Conical Flask. :-)
MrBurnTec: rachet spannerzzz
suzigixxer1000: HELP PLEASE! ive just bought second hand forks for my 1988 fz 600 as originals were blowing seals within a week and were bouncy and sink badly when the front brake was pulled i got the other pair and seals are fine no pitting where seals run there straight and the same length but id say there just as "bouncy" im unsure what to do could an oil change solve this? There supposed to use 10w but i assume the oil thats in them will be about 20yo and i was going to put fresh 20w in them can you please
burning1rr: It's very possible that the cap bolt was difficult to remove because it was being pinched by the upper triple clamp. I'd generally advise loosening the upper triple before removing the fork caps, to avoid buggering up the threads on the cap bolt.
Dave Bones: cheers for this. have you done any videos about ignition coils and electrics?
rawhide901: buckydurddle - thats just such an all American name! :)
Great video. Very Helpfull
rafa6694: Tens que ir comprar ferramenta melhor! MADE IN CHINA nao é la uma boa IDEIA, DEPOIS ERA MELHOR LEVANTAR A MOTO,VE LA SE NAO TE ALEIJAS?
zaldierna: this is carlos from barcelona, spain:
extra trick: not only my oil was dissapeared after 10 years, but the springs were quite dead too. a guy commented i could fit a piece of pipe between the spring and the upper bolt (the one u have to remove carefully) compressing the old spring and re-inforcing it.
idid, i used a regular iron pipe, 30 mm diameter, cutted the pipe in 2 pieces of 50 mm long, fitted'em and compressed the springs. the thing works well.
dumbtrucker3: If you put the bike on a motorcycle jack. It wouldnt spring up like that. Some will still have some spring pressure on them. Most will not. But very very nice video.