Numinous: I've always been told to remove all the spark plugs at once and keep cranking until the needle stops rising (usually 6-8 on my Mazdaspeed 3). Supposedly not having the spark plugs in the 3 cylinders you're not testing helps get an accurate reading faster because the starter doesn't have to work against all that extra cylinder pressure.
TheArtistsHeart Studio: well kept shop....reminds me of my life until age 17 when I moved out...my dad was the only mechanic in our small area and all adjacent towns.....I was daddy's girl like no other! !! I spent my days in a pan of gas cleaning his tools,,,playing in sawdust cleaning up spills....he made sure to keep me in modeling and even a couple beauty pageants so I would still have my girly side....but I sure do miss the days I spent with him in that old smelly garage!! he passed away in 2005 and I STILL have people that call asking me " I've got such n such problem do you remember any tricks Mr.Jack used to do to check this? 😄 I think it's cool......... and my apologies, I know my comment is way off in left field for the video topic but seeing how nice ,neat and we'll tooled your shop is just made me think back to working with my dad....
inked420js: nice car bro.
Jemima Aaron: What brand of Cooling System Pressure Tester set are you using? I would like to buy what you have. And where online can I find it?
mbdulka: I've recently been chasing a "gremlin" -- my car is pushing coolant at high-boost only .... I've done all these tests:
1. Compression Test = OK 2. Leak Down Test = Ok 3. Radiator Cap Test = 1 of 2 was a bit weak, so got new ones (problem still presisted) 4. No oil in coolant; no coolant in oil 5. UV Dye test into coolant = Ok (no dye in exhaust or anywhere else) 6. Radiator system pressure test (holds pressure to cap) 7. Removed thermostat (looked a bit bent) = didn't solve issue 8. Vacuum system test (holds vacuum) = Ok 9. Videoscoped pistons for leaks/coolant = All ok
Flushed the system good (was pretty clean); put in new thermostat -- used vacuum coolant filler (no air in system) ... used a mix with less distilled water. Last check it didn't push coolant. Even on big boost.
What you might get is a head lifting on boost, but not during idle/cruise -- most of these tests will not show you that unfortuately. Good video.
daniel w: Very informative video ur the man
sam davies: Cool workshop attire!
617k122: Hey Jafro, is it right to leave the plugs in besides the one your testing on ? I was told all should be removed the. Placed into your if wires and grounded so the spark doesn't ark back into the coil pack, also remove your engine fuse for fuel ?
Tim McNeil: good video , thank for the info.
salman esmail: nice vid
Alan Borjo: I've got a 99 Nissan Altima that has a possible blown head gasket. No smoke or fog exhaust. oil looks good. I changed the antifreeze because it was a rust color and when I refilled it, color changed to rust again. Weird! Any ideas?
SMIT411: Was that any old hand pump you used to test the coolant system? Where did you get the fittings for it? Thanks! Iv a suspected cracked head on my 325i e30...
Philscbx: Good Job Captain - Stumbled on & Im glad I did. 45 yrs of funny car to aircraft - every move - steps of perfection. To critical editing with details - For all others looking on - this is a Class Act.
RbG84: for me i buy a co2 combustion tester and is the best!! no need mount nothing is very fast
Jafromobile: Thank you Kyle! I always appreciate your awesome comments. It's also nice to see you explore my old skool DV videos, too! :D
Kyle Whybrew: You really do nothing less than perfection. A very detailed and accurate video on coolant systems and head health.
myHome109: Add coolant with engine running, with heaters on full blast to circulate coolant into the aux heater radiator, and the engine fully warm so the thermostat is open. Never add coolant to a cold engine that is off. That's too easy to trap air pockets in the heads and block passages. Always have more fluid in the overflow tank and never allow cooling radiator to suck in air, this cause trapped air pocket and overheating!
Jafromobile: And there you have it...
That's precisely why I boiled over on the dyno. Mine was complicated by a failed overflow system, but once air got in, there you go. Boyle's Law.
myHome109: Here are couple of tips. 1) Air expands and contract more than water, therefore any air pocket will trap steam and push out the water from the overflow. 2) BAD radiator caps can significantly lower the boiling point of the radiator fluid. The 13-14 PSI radiator cap will prevent the 50-50 mix from boiling up to 290 F. At 2-4 psi which are bad caps, the boiling point is reduced to 230-240 F, effectively boiling out the coolant without signal overheat, until completely dry.
Jafromobile: If you are for sure blowing exhaust into the coolant system, it's a safe bet that the head gasket is blown or the head is cracked. Under normal circumstances, that should never happen. It just means that the gasket isn't breached anywhere around the oil return galleries. Aside from overheating, driving it like that can damage the radiator or heater core. Replacing the head gasket is the right fix. A radiator pressure test will expose any other leaks in the coolant system.
DYAC: My friend's business did extremely well with adwords. He basically pay google to put his promotion ads on varies websites and the conversion rate is really high. I guess it helps since he sells gag/prank gifts and his ads get display on funny autocorrect websites. He wouldn't tell me the exact amount, but I'm estimating it is near the mid 6-figure salary. No risk no rewards I guess.
Engine coolant system and compression testing5
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