Engine Coolant System And Compression Testing




What do you think about this video?

MrGian91: 6:17 faaart hahaha :D

RinkoPobalinko: The pressure tester operates following a basic concept that consists of plugging cylinder heads outlets using rubber stoppers - then it injects pressurized air into the circuit. The head of the engine is then immersed in a bath, and if it contains any cracks, flow of air bubbles will rise to the surface of the bath. http://www.carmec.eu/pressure-tester

Tim McNeil: good video , thank for the info.

617k122: Hey Jafro, is it right to leave the plugs in besides the one your testing on ? I was told all should be removed the. Placed into your if wires and grounded so the spark doesn't ark back into the coil pack, also remove your engine fuse for fuel ?

salman esmail: nice vid

SMIT411: Was that any old hand pump you used to test the coolant system? Where did you get the fittings for it? Thanks! Iv a suspected cracked head on my 325i e30...

Philscbx: Good Job Captain - Stumbled on & Im glad I did. 45 yrs of funny car to aircraft - every move - steps of perfection. To critical editing with details - For all others looking on - this is a Class Act. 

Alan Borjo: I've got a 99 Nissan Altima that has a possible blown head gasket. No smoke or fog exhaust. oil looks good. I changed the antifreeze because it was a rust color and when I refilled it, color changed to rust again. Weird! Any ideas?

brass: you did such a good job mechanically and with the video thanx for sharing. the tests you did were both dry, right. the reason i ask is because if your symptom was simple over heating wouldn,t it be wise to replace the radiator cap with a higher pressure radiator cap temporarily, as the rad cap is the least expensive component. if no overheating= bad cap& thereby eliminating the need for the test.

Jafromobile: Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, but it wasn't the only problem. The other issue was my coolant overflow bottle. Aside from the fill and vent tubes, it wasn't air-tight, so it let air back up into the coolant system. I made a "Monster Can Coolant Overflow Bottle", and it's in a video here. It's in several videos, but if you search that, you'll find it. ;)

ipwn1911: how much was your exhaust manifold and where did you buy it ? :)

Kris Hall: Was your problem the radiator cap after all then?

Mike D.: This is why I prefer white American mechanics, skillzzzz. never go to a Russian or African mechanic .Straight up honest..

Jafromobile: Your charcoal canister is probably full of gas. It can happen from over-filling the gas tank, or a evaporative purge solenoid/system failure. Check the ECU for codes because it regulates the solenoid, and typically throws a code when it's fubar'd for any reason. If the solenoid isn't throwing codes, go through the vacuum system at the front of the car and find what's cracked broken loose or in the wrong place.

George Gill: @Jafromobile im not sure yet.. im going to take the valve cover off of it tomorrow i hope its not a bent valve or we are gonna have to do all that work over again D: im hoping a valve is stuck open

DJDevon3: I'm interested in purchasing a compression tester. From the perspective of a new buyer how do I know that my compression tester is accurate. Is there a way to calibrate it? If your readings are off and you think your below minimum spec (only your actually not) and tear down for no reason. I don't see any info on the internet for calibration, like it doesn't exist. That gives me cause for concern. Hope you get my point. Hope that gives you an idea for a future video. :)

George Gill: i have a 1996 eagle talon someone took the head off and got another good one from a junk yard... its been setting in a garage for 2 years i made sure everything was clean and nothing was warped.. after i put it together there is no compression on #3 cyclender... anyone have any ideas what it could be? idk if it was a valve stuck open? or bad rings? theres absolutly no copression at all... i put a bit of oil in the cyclinder and there is still no compression.

Jafromobile: @freakskater854 so far so good... it's my tune that's all screwed up now. I'm still working on it... It hasn't yet out-flowed my old Big16g. In fact, the most I've got out of it so far is EQUAL to this MHI Big16g that's on the dyno in this video. I haven't managed to even make 1hp more. Not bad though, considering the MHI cost 3x as much.

mariohdz2626: hi . what does a car do when it has a bad cylinder? i have a 95 Talon Tsi turbo fwd

Jafromobile: @countryboyG Sounds like you've got a bent valve on the junkyard head. What happens if you take the valve cover off and inspect #3? Have someone rotate the motor with a wrench through the driver's side wheel well. If you use the starter, you'll spray oil everywhere, so turn it by hand. Can you see a problem with the cam, or how the valves are moving?

Grazo22: That was a bloody fab video, must have taken ages to edit. Poor starter motor though ;) Could you not have done a sniffer test on the coolant. My sisters daewoo was reading over 100psi in 2 cylinders and in the other 2 it was less that 50 because they gasket had completely gone inbetween them. Shame really, it only had 60K on the clock and had had the same problem at 40K

moexus: I did the pressure test and found the intake manifold leaking oil! I found oil in my radiator cap, is it bad gasket ?

MichaelCosta84: @Jafromobile I just want to make sure I understand you 100%, if it continuously bubbles with the radiator cap off, it's a bad head gasket?

CzarWilkins: Excellent video, when having the appropiate tools, everything is possible!!!

ThePumpkinKing1606: lol its all good dude. just keep em comin. i watch all ur vids religiously. theyve helped me alot espically the brake rebuilds.

LonerSkateCrew: why would you put that in the cylinder thats not a safety hazzard or anything

bajagreatwhitesharks: Hey there jafromobile you gave me a good idea to check my head cylinder on my 22R I been having problems with the timing but I don't want to say the timing is bad...It's more like I'm going to recheck my head cylinder since I did the valve job just want to double check everything is cool then go back to my timing. Thanks Bro!

Jafromobile: Thank you Kyle! I always appreciate your awesome comments. It's also nice to see you explore my old skool DV videos, too! :D

Calgarycarp: Excellent video learned a lot.

Jafromobile: don't worry. I ain't fergot aboutchoo. :P

myHome109: Here are couple of tips. 1) Air expands and contract more than water, therefore any air pocket will trap steam and push out the water from the overflow. 2) BAD radiator caps can significantly lower the boiling point of the radiator fluid. The 13-14 PSI radiator cap will prevent the 50-50 mix from boiling up to 290 F. At 2-4 psi which are bad caps, the boiling point is reduced to 230-240 F, effectively boiling out the coolant without signal overheat, until completely dry.

Jafromobile: @mariohdz2626 I think your turbo shaft seals have gone bad by what you describe. Bad valve stem seals makes it smoke when you start it, and then rolling into boost after prolonged vacuum (long downshift, or going downhill... and then into boost). Turbo shaft seals would cause it to smoke consistently when you're under vacuum, and even more under load. First take your lower intercooler pipe off, and see how much oil you find in there. Don't jump to conclusions without checking that. :)

Jafromobile: @theredejvtec Yes, it's true. There's a valve that opens and closes to block flow to the heater core when you turn the heat off. Air in the coolant can make your car act like it has a bad head gasket. That's precisely what this video was demonstrating. Air in the system, or a defective coolant overflow system causes boilover. So does a bad head gasket. Coolant and air have different thermal expansion rates, so you have to get ALL the air out for it to work properly. 0 leaks are acceptable

MichaelCosta84: @Jafromobile Well the reason I ask is because I have continuous bubbling from my coolant system, which I burped, is not pushing coolant as of this time, compression is 172-172-181-175, so I doubt the gasket is an issue. It doesn't overheat, it just bubbles. I have a video of it.

Jafromobile: Oh heheh. You must have read the info. I even deleted half of it because it was too long for YouTube to let me post it.

graveplott47: 710 cap lol

laurajdahl: @Jafromobile Thanks for your be-lated answer. ;)

imupabove: is their a place where i can test or diagnose my car for any problems? cuz i have a engine gunk/build on my distributor cap and a little on my engine.

djdarkmunk .: back to the dyno?

Jafromobile: @thegreatcb7 It's a ratio... it measures how far the air gets squished by the compression stroke. the :1 is atmospheric pressure at sea level (the reference), and the 10.8 in your example would be 10.8x greater than the reference. In referenceing FINAL compression ratio, (usually only a factor on forced induction engines) is how many times greater it is after factoring in boost pressure. This isn't relevant when ordering pistons as they use just the compression ratio as a reference.

mariohdz2626: @Jafromobile thanks for your help ..i finally got a TD05 big 16g turbo ..but i need an oil inlet fitting .. i checked online and i found out that the size of the fitting is M12x1.25 to AN4 fitting. Do you know if is the right size to fit the turbo?

gdizzle530: do I smell another dyno run?? You hit 400+ last time didn't you?? after the AFR was changed....right?

lalex222: Very informative , thanks.

woodrumnick69: Hey man my 95 Eclipse's antifreeze is disappearing but not on the ground what could it be

Jafromobile: @MichaelCosta84 Hey MC! Heat's a big factor regarding what fluids do and what shape metals take... A warped head might only leak when hot or cold. If you don't maintain pressure on extremely hot water, it will boil. So if a coolant leak develops, it might look like bubbles are continuously rising to the top, but it could be evaporation. It's only one of many tests, but I did all of them to rule anything out. If it's indeed most definitely exhaust; yes, bad head gasket or cracked head.

Jafromobile: It's in the video starting at 6:51. You need a fitting that connects to the compression hose that allows you to pressurize the combustion chamber with compressed air. Basically a "leak down tester". Once you have the cylinder on TDC of the compression stroke, leaking air can be heard through the car's intake, or exhaust depending on which valves are affected. It's best to attempt to manually turn the crank with a wrench if you hear leaks to make sure they're fully closed.

Jafromobile: I just want to clarify that I was looking for a leak that would push exhaust into the coolant. The coolant pressure tester is not necessary when doing a leak-down test (the last test performed). I was just double-checking my work. I can't do a proper leak-down test with the equipment I have. I could stop all the airflow so I knew everything was okay and didn't need to check further. Maybe someday I'll post a leak-down video? I don't have the tool yet.

wes39393: LOL 710 cap. It's funny because it's always upside down.

brass: you did such a good job mechanically and with the video thanx for sharing. the tests you did were both dry, right. the reason i ask is because if your symptom was simple over heating wouldn,t it be wise to replace the radiator cap with a higher pressure radiator cap temporarily, as the rad cap is the least expensive component.

mariohdz2626: Hi thanks for your videos they're really great.. i have a 95 Talon tsi stock turbo in the past few days the car has a blue/white smoke ..every time i stop at a light and when i go over 3500 rpm.. i change the oil and still the same.. im not lossing power still runs strong but smokes a lot.. what happens when theres bad valves seakls?

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Engine coolant system and compression testing 4.8 out of 5

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