T Rex: I used a long breaker bar with 19mm socket for crank bolt, just layer bar on top of left frame rail and bumped starter, worked like a champ
Audiophilia: You are so wrong on how to remove the crank pulley .... There is a video on my you tube channel that shows hoe to take it of in about 30 seconds ...... Works every time ..... EVERY TIME.
Shawn Collins: Great video, Thanks! Which air impact wrench would I need? just any 3/8" drive from harbor freight? or maybe the shortest one? Can I borrow any carpenter friend's compressor for this or do I need a special compressor?
Daniel Thompson: On point I will subscribe so sick of videos that do not share the tool techniques that is everything. I usually know how or have a diagram. But what impact to use what part to move out of the way priceless thank you!
Stone Primeaux: And I have a 93 4runner 3L
Stone Primeaux: What would this job cost in labor
ef4doorvtec: haaah! that water pump is pooched
warren19471: Thank you Very informative and complete. makes my job a lot easier.
abdabd abd: thank you . please watch this video
CosmicStargoat: Nice video. I just had all this done for my 2006 4R V-8. The water pump was leaking, so I had the whole deal done. I'm not a mechanic, so this is very interesting to me to see what they actually had to do. I also got struts, brakes, rotors, oil, etc., so I essentially have a new car. 96,000 miles and many more to roll.
mronemanband1: I used 1/2 breaker bar on crank bolt and kicked over starter came right off left radiator in
Martin Stafford: Just did one and the toughest part is getting the tensioner out to compress and pin it, you can get to the rear tensioner mounting bolt with 1/4 drive-6 pt. 12mm short socket from the bottom using a 12"- 1/4 drive wobble end (not u-joint) extension, be warned getting that bolt back in is the hardest part...3 tries, 30 + minutes solo, with a helper should not be too bad I also use 3- 6" Irwin (Lowes) bar clamps to hold the belt in/on the sprocket (clamp belt all 3 sprockets belt and sprocket marks aligned, leave upper most center tensioner off, roll both cams toward central upper idler (uninstalled) to pull up belt slack, try not to move crank during this, when you have all available slack in upper belt loop lay upper idler on belt and hand start bolt, torque to spec, recheck all 3 marks. pull tensioner release pin, remove clamps, roll motor over by hand 4 revolutions. if no issue... start and run very briefly, if all checks and runs normally, finish re assembly.
72Disco1998: The A/C bracket was a bitch but a great informative video.
72Disco1998: You skipped the step on how to install the timing belt. I have it off but the belt is so tight I can not place the pulley back in to tighten everything back up.
Erik Fritz: Can you loosen those bolts on the pull with just a breaker bar instead of an air wrench?
Sopheak Tha: How much you charge for your work?
Matt Golden: Thanks for this video. I have a 96 T-100 with the same engine as in this video. Do you have a video on how to replace the fuel pump?
Johnny Bendever: Well, The truck Toyota T100 DX 1995 3.4 Liter / V6 / 5VZFE was running good when the water pump started leaking. I decided to replace the water pump & timing belt along with the front main seal, fan belts, Hydraulic Tensioner, timing belt, Tensioner Roller. It all went very hard as it was my first time. Needless to say the engine would not start. It would chug for a minute and the engine light came on. I dis assembled the the covers on the timing belt and all the marks are lined up (both cams TDC, camshaft gear mark lined up with the water pump, and the crankshaft pulley mark on 0. So I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor 19300-62010 and put it all back together. It will only chug for a minute and just grind. Wait about 15 minutes and it will do the same thing. I checked the fuel filter on the engine side and it is getting fuel through the filter. I also smelled the exhaust pipe after its done chugging and it smells like fuel. Now I noticed that the crankshaft gear is smaller than the camshaft gears? In my strugel to remove the crankshaft bolt I know I turned the crank shaft a few turns more than the camshafts. My questions is as long as all the marks line up shouldn't I be good on the timing? Any help or guidance you could give me would be much appreciated.
Johnny Bendever: Hello, I am replacing the Timing belt & water pump in my 1995 T100 and my holding tool on the camshaft pulley failed and the camshaft slipped a few turns when trying to remove the camshaft pulley bolt. I relined the marks on the camshaft gear & belt, and on the top L&R cam on the belt as in your video.I also turned it around once like in you vied and it lined up at TDC & 0. Needless to say the engine will not start. I thought as long as you reline up the marks it did not mater if the camshaft was turned? Is my timing off. Any help you could give me would be appreciated.