Ro Efa: I replaced the head gasket on my engine, and that small cap on the end of
one of the valves stems found its way to the crankcase and it broke
both the counterbalance link and that centrifugal doo-dad on the cam gear.
I have a new link, but Briggs won't sell me the spring and weight
assembly... only an entire new camshaft w/gear and weight... too expensive.
Do you know of a practical way to add a manual compression release? Some
motorcycles have them. PS: Really enjoy your videos; THANKS.
Nickolas Davies: ah yes finaly, been fixing a tohatsu 4 stroke efi 25hp that suffered a
swim, got it runnig all good but could not figure out why it took such a
massive amount of force to pull.
then saw this video and all made sense, all 3 were jammed full open so no
decompression prior to start.
thanks for the upload.
kenny sylvia: hey I have the 5.5 black model its a walk behind as well I just had
everything apart put together and working fine after a few pulls it
locks up do u have any idea that may help me please and have a happy fourth
EASTYJAZ34: My Quantum engine is experiencing Knocking sounds when i shut the engine
off. I have made a video about it. What do u think the problem is?
James Humphrey: A quick way to check to see if the compression release is the problem on a
hard to turn over B & S OHV Engine. Take the valve cover off and turn the
engine to the position where it is really hard to turn. You need a helper
and expect to get a little oil on you. Have your helper, when you tell him
to try starting the engine, now take a screwdriver and put the tip onto the
valve exhaust valve lifter - on the very end right over the valve stem or
on top of the valve spring cap - carefully push in about a tenth of an inch
THEN have it turn the key to start. If your engine has had a habit of
being easy to start up to now, it will spin, fire and most of the time
start. You may have to try this a couple of times at first to get the
knack of it as when the engine turns over your screwdriver will bounce
off. Be careful to push in just a wee bit, you will probably feel the
valve stem give way just a tad, that is all you want to push. They will
usually start after one full cycle but if your engine has a lot of miles
and a habit of hard starting, you may have to try it a couple of times ??
If this doesn't work, you may have an intake compression release, try that
one. When and if it starts the engine will start pumping oil an you will
get squirted a little and the oil will also run down onto the exhaust, no
problem just turn the switch off. Now if this works you have just
identified for sure what the problem is so either take off the bottom case
and repair yourself or take it to the shop. Have a nice day. Jim
Joseph Alvord: what if mine isnt a ohv system i have a briggs and stratton 12.5 gold model
and it has really high compression any ideas? i've changed the connecting
rod and i torque it to what the instructions said and put it all back
together and tried starting is when i found out i had high compression the
starter is good had it checked out and the starter gear does get stuck on
James Humphrey: Also, like fnaguitarplayer9 said, before tearing down, try to reset your
exhaust valve setting, if it is sloppy and wide, it may adjust out, if it
doesn't then you can look for a problem on the cam and that is a tear
VintageOutboardMan: Hey man, I've seen this video before, but I got a question. Do you know
when Briggs started using these automatic decompressors? I have a 10hp
Briggs from 1976 and with my compression tester I got only 60-70PSI out of
it. The engine is not burning any oil and it has lots of power! When I turn
it slowly by hand, I can feel a lot of resistance too. If it has an
automatic decompressor, 60-70PSI would be excellent, so may I assume it has
one??? By the way, yes my compression tester works accurate ;)
mowerman45: Thanks!!! thats about the only thing i think could be the problem
Aaron Zepeda: Interesting! My starter had trouble cranking over & it melted abit. The
starter stops on the compression stroke. Its spins freely without the spark
plugs in. I thought it was the weak battery, rusty coils, bent crankshaft &
etc, but never thought about this. Well, I guess I'll rebuild my starter &
25hp b&s intek engine!
Nick'sGarageDoorService: @outdoorsman310 That's a good idea, but the problem is what if it wears too
fast? And either way, metal shavings are not welcome/good in any engine. :-)
madisonelectronic: Thanks! Does it work the same in a Honda 13hp? It runs great but starting
it breaks my arm. The valves have been set to 5 and seven (I and O) I am
gonna check tonight if I see that movement of the intake valve when I turn
it by hand. I cannot think something is broken cause the engine (a real
Honda) not a knockoff has maybe 20 hours running from new.
fnaguitarplayer9: no problem. i'm not really sure, i've never worked on a honda, worked on a
few honda carburetors thats about it. i figure it is something like this, i
know some motors have a manual compression release. It should be on the
exhaust valve, but in some cases its on the intake. well you never know, it
is possible that something broke, i doubt it though being that new. You
could try to set the valves a few thousandths less, like 4 and 6, some are
picky. hope this helps. thanks for watching!!!
teerification: I have a PowerBuilt 17.5 OHV briggs. Has that hard start/unadjusted valve
myozone: the exact opposite to a jack brake on a truck
teerification: which valve releases the compression? exhaust or intake? plz help
fnaguitarplayer9: heard that, its a very common problem on OHV motors, i showed it one of my
videos, if you search for briggs 14.5 ohv on my channel its one of those
videos. i can't remember which one it is.
EdoublS: .004 on the valves. Would it be safe to say, the compression release on the
cam is the problem?
fnaguitarplayer9: its usually the exhaust valve, but on some engines its the intake. And on
some engines (not lawn mower engines) its a separate valve that releases
the pressure. thanks for watching!
1899lpv: Sweet !
EdoublS: I have a b&s 16.5 that came to me with the aluminum pushrod been pretty bad
coming out the side of the rocker arm. I replaced the pushrod but now it's
still hard turning over and I believe that the problem is within the
camshaft. when I get to the compression stroke I get a lot of resistance,
and I hear a hiss coming back through the carburetor which tells me that
the head gasket is bad. I have already adjusted the valves correctly. I do
believe that the problem is with the compression release.
old64goat: Good info. Thanks for uploading. Bill
fnaguitarplayer9: thanks for watching!!!
outdoorsman310: they should make that to wear away as your engine looses compression
teerification: Thank you! I have to adjust my valves as soon as I get my feeler gauge I
ordered on amazon.
Robert Smith: great video, i see you've done the spring maintanance video, cant wait to
check it out
fnaguitarplayer9: No Problem, thanks for watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9: yeah that would make sense! thanks for watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9: its uploading right now, be up in a few hours... thanks for watching
fnaguitarplayer9: no problem! i've been meaning to put this video up haha same here.
Guy Garic: thx
fnaguitarplayer9: thanks for watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9: just about any time one is hard to crank over its in the valves or
compression release, most of the time you can adjust it out, but the bump
on the cam for the release can wear out or jam up. i would think so. try
cranking it without the plug just to make sure you don't have a bad
starter. thanks for watching!!!
fnaguitarplayer9: you wouldn't have to rebuild the engine, all you need to do is adjust the
valves, if the valve clearance is to much the compression release won't
work right or at all depending on how bad. but the starter may need rebuilt
since it got so hot Thanks for Watching!!!