RICKAFIX: mine has the leak to but mostly annoying to see. But those roller bearings
would be effected by a leaking seal only if all the fluid leaked out???
Pulling off those would be the next step before i pull the plug on a
rebuild. I'll see If I can record it tomorrow before and after i Install
the axles. Thanks Spelunkerd....l
sj p: Do you have to drain the gear oil in order to replace seals?
kenman1717: Very informative. Did you have much trouble dropping that axle tube down
once you unbolted it? Sometimes they are a pain, and you pretty much have
to unbolt the whole front diff so you can change its angle to get the tube
off, and some times you even have to take out that right cv axle. I think
it has a lot to do with year and whether its a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton, I can't
remember exactly. Another question, that washer you pulled out that had the
ears on it that just sat in the slots of the tube, was there another washer
with it. The older ones usually have 2 washers, one with ears and one
regular, and they make up a certain thickness but if you ever need to
replace them there is a new update one with ears that is thicker, that
replaces both. I have ran into that before took everything apart to do the
seal and one ear was missing and ground up in that sliding sprocket and
Chris Wheeler: When you get a chance will you look at my videos and look at the one that
is 3 seconds long and tell me if you think the bearing in there could be
the caise of the grinding and popping noise?
Tim Pillsbury: replacing rt front axle seak on 4x4
Chris Wheeler: Ill try to capture the sounds its making in a video and post if online.
Chris Wheeler: Do you know anything about that bearing inside there? Do you know signs of
it going bad?
carlosvalles91: Is it the same prosedure on a 99 blazer 4x4???
raul martinez: great video need to that to left side will that be the same steps for
pulling the axle but what in working on is a 93 chevy 4x4 3500 dually axles
look the same
spelunkerd: That's never happened to me, Bruce. Briansmobile1 alluded to this in his
video and I think if that happens you may have to put it back in place from
the inside with a long set of pliers. You might have to remove the diff and
get at it from the other side. Did this happen to you? If it did, I would
appreciate you recording your experience here to improve the thread for
anybody who reads this later. Bad luck!
spelunkerd: On the right side, usually easy. On the left, variable but either easy or
hard. A TSB was released for the left saying to rock the axle up and down
to center that ring clip, to allow axial pressure to squeeze it inward and
allow the axle to come off. My left seal is leaking a little, so when I
have time I'll video the left.
Matt Kelly: Thanks. As far as the guts go the 95 seems to have the same set up as the
the suburban as far as assembly goes. Different seals and parts im sure but
these videos will help with a large range of years and models of chevy/gmc
vehicles. Good stuff thanks for the video and references
sambeano024: Just wanted to tell you thanks for posting this. After seeing your video,
I've replaced the outer seals, left and right, of both my '88 Chevy truck
and my wife's '93 GMC Suburban. Same set up, more or less. Seems you've got
a little more maneuvering room under the newer models, because I had to
wind up dropping the entire diff after removing the right tube, to do the
spelunkerd: @airdoct Thanks for recording your experience, for those who later view
this video. I wondered if that medial shaft was held in with a C-clip, and
I wondered if it would require dismantling the diff to get it back in. Glad
it wasn't too difficult. Dave
Matt Kelly: agreed. spinning helps. I was smashing the thing with no luck until i
finally spun it in the right position and it only took a good whack. I
believe if you look very closely at the axle splines you can see the
splines where the retaining washer is suppose to go are worn/rounded more
at the top. I could have also been drunk and delusional so dont quote me on
spelunkerd: You're welcome, Bryce. I'm just editing a full video of the left side axle
seal. I did a much better job of documenting it this time -- it should be
ready in a week. Dave
spelunkerd: As I recall, GM modified the design of their trucks between 1995 and 2000,
and so it may well be different. I'll have a look tomorrow -- if I can read
the numbers I can list them off for you, though even then it would be a
guess. As you know, the most reliable way to get parts is to have the old
part in hand when you go to the parts store, though getting to the store
without a vehicle is sometimes a problem.
URTARDS2: The title, it says how to replace the right front axle seal... But you
never shown which seal is the wrong seal.
spelunkerd: When I look back at this video, it's not a great or thorough effort. Mainly
it was done to supplement the video Briansmobile1 did, which was
complicated by a camera malfunction half way through. I guess I could have
done a shot of it all put back together, but I doubt it would add much.
Sorry, I can't help with the roller bearing since mine was OK and never
replaced. What motivated me to do the video was absence of others -- you
might pay it forward and post one. Thanks for the sub!
Matt Kelly: its just a shot in the dark. the diagrams i have been able to find show the
exact same set up. doesnt mean ratios, lengths etc. are the same but it
would be nice to know how similar the guts are
spelunkerd: @memorycdrew I understand. One other thing I could have done is remove the
axle and that way make room to pull the axle tube straight out laterally.
But looking back at this, the way I did it was also very simple and easy.
If I had to do it again I probably would do it the same way I did it here.
Broc Bell: I just replaced mine, and the only problem I came across was getting the
gear with the retaining ring back on the axle shaft. Took quite a few good
smacks but it finally went.
spelunkerd: Thanks for the followup, Matt. Nice to meet you. Dave
06summit: video was well put together, briansmobile1 was good for removing it. thanks
for the info
URTARDS2: Which seal is the wrong one?
spelunkerd: Thanks, David. When I look back at this video, it's not nearly as good as
others I've done. But it does include details that weren't shown elsewhere,
and I'm glad it is still useful. I'll guess that yours is probably similar,
but you should look for a dealers manual for more info. Even slight
differences could be critically important.
Matt Kelly: any chance of getting the part number off of the shaft housing assembly? Im
about to tackle my 95 gmc k1500 and just want to confirm that it is a
different model bc the national seal part number called for a 71010 and
looks way different from the one you have installed. My housing number is
26033234-2 it should be raised numbers visible from underneath.
spelunkerd: Thanks for the feedback. When I can get to it I'm planning on doing the
spelunkerd: I crawled under and had a look. My number is 26058833 with F-11 underneath
that. Good luck, Matt.
memorycdrew: Hey man, its quite simple to remove the swap bar end links. Just put vise
grips on the lower threaded plate and blast out the bolt with the impact.
Pretty simple if you ask me.
Peter Paradis: Great video, the H3 has the same basic assembly. I was going to go to a
dealership, but now I may tackle this at home. Thanks.
MRTIM49017: how hard is it to get that gear off the axle shaft itself so you can pull
the axle out of the tube?
sambeano024: Not sure how much of a difference there is between the GMT400 platform and
the 800 platform, but on the '88 to '98 series, you can't take the left
side CV axle out, unless you remove the upper ball joint and throw out your
alignment, doing it that way. or just take the whole diff assembly out. And
if the CV axle stays in, not enough room to drive the stub shaft out. I
wanted to remove it and thoroughly clean it, since it has been getting
water in the gear lube.
spelunkerd: @bearing01 Thank you, John. Of course the best way to do this is to film it
as each step is done. That method is time consuming, and sometimes you run
into technical problems regarding the video. As much as I prefer to watch
that method, I used a quicker approach with this, filming part way through.
It's not perfect but hopefully it gets the important parts across. Dave.
Bruce Thorne: i think you forgot to menshion what if the lock ring does not stay in the
gear and it comes out with the axel what to do then.
Bryce Miles: thanks for the attention to detail .... you just saved me a bunch of time.
DirTyOhGee: DANG!!! That looks like a process! Good job and good video...I own a 2001
Chevy Silverado...I feel like going out and checking the axle seals now.
bearing01: I didn't watch the other videos you recommended. Your video seemed quite
informative and I'm sure it will help others facing this problem. Thanks
supermotofreak14: My 08 2500 had the same set up basically. I have to replace that bearing.
It's shot and causes a vibration in 4x.
spelunkerd: I'm sorry, I am not understanding your question.
david jenson: great video and attention to detail. Do you think my 1999 tahoe 4wd is the
spelunkerd: Thanks for your feedback! My left is starting to leak, and Alldata don't
say anything about dropping the diff. Did you have trouble getting the
medial stub shaft out after removing the left CV axle?
briansmobile1: Great video! I would love to host this as a video response to mine.
bbyeahwhatever: Very helpful! Thanks!
NAHAAFB: Medial aspect, how cerebral of you. I like your channel you do a good job
explaining each steep and any issues that one might encounter.
spelunkerd: Not sure. That 2000 year there was a design change, but axles tend to be
used for many consecutive years.
Bryce Miles: 5 or 6 good strikes with a rubber mallet. i had a leaking seal and a little
racket when in four wheel drive. After the gear came off the axle shaft, i
noticed that the washer with the two flanges that seats against the tube
was damaged. i could have possibly done it while smacking it with the
rubber mallet but i highly doubt it, i didn't use that much force. There
were no flanges, & the washer was inside the tube and had rotated to a
funny angle. hopefully this solves my noise!
Myke W: @spelunkerd The inner axle that came out was just free floating, no "c"
clips on either side to hold it in. It just added about 6 inches to to
right axle shaft assembly when I took it out so I had to pry the
differential around to get the clearance to fully remove it. Once I had it
out I realized that it should have stayed in and nothing was holding the
shaft in place so I slid it back in the differential and continued with the
brake down of the right shaft as you described.
spelunkerd: @briansmobile1 Sure, Brian, let's do that. I think these complement each
other nicely. Dave