spelunkerd: Thanks for the followup, Matt. Nice to meet you.
Matt Kelly: Thanks. As far as the guts go the 95 seems to have the same set up as the the suburban as far as assembly goes. Different seals and parts im sure but these videos will help with a large range of years and models of chevy/gmc vehicles. Good stuff thanks for the video and references
Matt Kelly: agreed. spinning helps. I was smashing the thing with no luck until i finally spun it in the right position and it only took a good whack. I believe if you look very closely at the axle splines you can see the splines where the retaining washer is suppose to go are worn/rounded more at the top. I could have also been drunk and delusional so dont quote me on that
spelunkerd: I crawled under and had a look. My number is 26058833 with F-11 underneath that. Good luck, Matt.
Matt Kelly: its just a shot in the dark. the diagrams i have been able to find show the exact same set up. doesnt mean ratios, lengths etc. are the same but it would be nice to know how similar the guts are
spelunkerd: As I recall, GM modified the design of their trucks between 1995 and 2000, and so it may well be different. I'll have a look tomorrow -- if I can read the numbers I can list them off for you, though even then it would be a guess. As you know, the most reliable way to get parts is to have the old part in hand when you go to the parts store, though getting to the store without a vehicle is sometimes a problem.
Matt Kelly: any chance of getting the part number off of the shaft housing assembly? Im about to tackle my 95 gmc k1500 and just want to confirm that it is a different model bc the national seal part number called for a 71010 and looks way different from the one you have installed. My housing number is 26033234-2 it should be raised numbers visible from underneath.
spelunkerd: yeah, mine slipped in but I know what you mean. I think the ring can bind if it's at the wrong angle and it won't go that way. spinning and trying again seems to help.
Broc Bell: I just replaced mine, and the only problem I came across was getting the gear with the retaining ring back on the axle shaft. Took quite a few good smacks but it finally went.
URTARDS2: The title, it says how to replace the right front axle seal... But you never shown which seal is the wrong seal.
spelunkerd: I'm sorry, I am not understanding your question.
URTARDS2: Which seal is the wrong one?
NAHAAFB: Medial aspect, how cerebral of you. I like your channel you do a good job explaining each steep and any issues that one might encounter.
spelunkerd: That's never happened to me, Bruce. Briansmobile1 alluded to this in his video and I think if that happens you may have to put it back in place from the inside with a long set of pliers. You might have to remove the diff and get at it from the other side. Did this happen to you? If it did, I would appreciate you recording your experience here to improve the thread for anybody who reads this later. Bad luck!
Bruce Thorne: i think you forgot to menshion what if the lock ring does not stay in the gear and it comes out with the axel what to do then.
spelunkerd: When I look back at this video, it's not a great or thorough effort. Mainly it was done to supplement the video Briansmobile1 did, which was complicated by a camera malfunction half way through. I guess I could have done a shot of it all put back together, but I doubt it would add much.
Sorry, I can't help with the roller bearing since mine was OK and never replaced. What motivated me to do the video was absence of others -- you might pay it forward and post one. Thanks for the sub!
BreathDoctor: Very good video, but why not show the housings clean and tidy upon rebuild ?
And what about that roller bearing in there. I've got one for my truck, but cant find a breakdown showing how to install it.
spelunkerd: Thanks, David. When I look back at this video, it's not nearly as good as others I've done. But it does include details that weren't shown elsewhere, and I'm glad it is still useful.
I'll guess that yours is probably similar, but you should look for a dealers manual for more info. Even slight differences could be critically important.
david jenson: great video and attention to detail.
Do you think my 1999 tahoe 4wd is the same?
spelunkerd: You're welcome, Bryce. I'm just editing a full video of the left side axle seal. I did a much better job of documenting it this time -- it should be ready in a week.
Bryce Miles: 5 or 6 good strikes with a rubber mallet. i had a leaking seal and a little racket when in four wheel drive. After the gear came off the axle shaft, i noticed that the washer with the two flanges that seats against the tube was damaged. i could have possibly done it while smacking it with the rubber mallet but i highly doubt it, i didn't use that much force. There were no flanges, & the washer was inside the tube and had rotated to a funny angle. hopefully this solves my noise!
Bryce Miles: thanks for the attention to detail .... you just saved me a bunch of time.
spelunkerd: Thanks for the feedback. When I can get to it I'm planning on doing the driver's side.
spelunkerd: On the right side, usually easy. On the left, variable but either easy or hard. A TSB was released for the left saying to rock the axle up and down to center that ring clip, to allow axial pressure to squeeze it inward and allow the axle to come off. My left seal is leaking a little, so when I have time I'll video the left.
MRTIM49017: how hard is it to get that gear off the axle shaft itself so you can pull the axle out of the tube?
spelunkerd: Not sure. That 2000 year there was a design change, but axles tend to be used for many consecutive years.
carlosvalles91: Is it the same prosedure on a 99 blazer 4x4???
supermotofreak14: My 08 2500 had the same set up basically. I have to replace that bearing. It's shot and causes a vibration in 4x.
spelunkerd: When I have time I'm going to do the axle seal on that side and I'll video the effort. According to Alldata the trickiest problem on the front left is that the axle is held in place by a ring that can bind. In a memo from Chev they say to tip the axle up and down to center the ring, which should allow it to compress symmetrically, and then pull out. However in your case the vehicle is a lot older so the procedure may be different. I would try to get my hands on a dealers manual....
raul martinez: great video need to that to left side will that be the same steps for pulling the axle but what in working on is a 93 chevy 4x4 3500 dually axles look the same
sambeano024: Not sure how much of a difference there is between the GMT400 platform and the 800 platform, but on the '88 to '98 series, you can't take the left side CV axle out, unless you remove the upper ball joint and throw out your alignment, doing it that way. or just take the whole diff assembly out. And if the CV axle stays in, not enough room to drive the stub shaft out. I wanted to remove it and thoroughly clean it, since it has been getting water in the gear lube.
spelunkerd: Thanks for your feedback!
My left is starting to leak, and Alldata don't say anything about dropping the diff. Did you have trouble getting the medial stub shaft out after removing the left CV axle?
sambeano024: Just wanted to tell you thanks for posting this. After seeing your video, I've replaced the outer seals, left and right, of both my '88 Chevy truck and my wife's '93 GMC Suburban. Same set up, more or less. Seems you've got a little more maneuvering room under the newer models, because I had to wind up dropping the entire diff after removing the right tube, to do the left side.
Collin Rogers: that c clip your talking about is causing me a world of trouble on my 2000 silverado. we cant get the axle out to replace the seal just as this video describes.
Myke W: The inner axle that came out was just free floating, no "c"
clips on either side to hold it in. It just added about 6 inches to to
right axle shaft assembly when I took it out so I had to pry the
differential around to get the clearance to fully remove it. Once I
had it out I realized that it should have stayed in and nothing was
holding the shaft in place so I slid it back in
the differential and continued with the brake down of the
right shaft as you described.
spelunkerd: Thanks for recording your experience, for those who later view this video. I wondered if that medial shaft was held in with a C-clip, and I wondered if it would require dismantling the diff to get it back in. Glad it wasn't too difficult.
Myke W: Great video, thanks. I just did both left and right on my 2001 GMC Sierra. I did it with out jacking the truck or taking the tires off. I also put it in 4 High. When I pulled out the right side axel, the inner axel came with it making it a challenge to fish it out, but after I did get it out, I put the inner axel back into the differential and the the assembly was not a challenge. On the left side, I just unbolted the axel and used a piece of wood and hammer, 5 hits and it was out.
Peter Paradis: Great video, the H3 has the same basic assembly. I was going to go to a dealership, but now I may tackle this at home. Thanks.
spelunkerd: I understand. One other thing I could have done is remove the axle and that way make room to pull the axle tube straight out laterally. But looking back at this, the way I did it was also very simple and easy. If I had to do it again I probably would do it the same way I did it here.
memorycdrew: Hey man, its quite simple to remove the swap bar end links. Just put vise grips on the lower threaded plate and blast out the bolt with the impact. Pretty simple if you ask me.
bbyeahwhatever: Very helpful! Thanks!
06summit: video was well put together, briansmobile1 was good for removing it.
thanks for the info
DirTyOhGee: DANG!!! That looks like a process! Good job and good video...I own a 2001 Chevy Silverado...I feel like going out and checking the axle seals now.
spelunkerd: Sure, Brian, let's do that. I think these complement each other nicely.
briansmobile1: Great video! I would love to host this as a video response to mine.
spelunkerd: Thank you, John. Of course the best way to do this is to film it as each step is done. That method is time consuming, and sometimes you run into technical problems regarding the video. As much as I prefer to watch that method, I used a quicker approach with this, filming part way through. It's not perfect but hopefully it gets the important parts across. Dave.
bearing01: I didn't watch the other videos you recommended. Your video seemed quite informative and I'm sure it will help others facing this problem. Thanks /John
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