Gary Meyers: I'm having that clicking noise problem on a 2000 Ford Taurus. I kind of
drained my battery trying to start it when it was very cold outside. I
cranked the engine on and off for 5 minutes and eventually the clicking
started and then the car lights went out. I went and bought a 900 amp jump
started and tried to start the car. The lights inside the car worked with
the jump-starter, but when trying to start the engine, i hear that clicking
sound immediately and the car does not turn over at all. Could it be that
the jump-starter doesn't have enough power to start the car still? I would
think a 900amp jump starter could start a small v6 engine no problem. I
really hope I didn't ruin the starter by cranking it too much in the cold.
Chris Arancibia: excellent video.
Keithen Woody: So if your so Solenoid is clicking.Then the problem aint the Solenoid?
catfishstinch: can a silenoid stick closed causing the starter to not not stop turning
once the engine is started? This only happens when it is really cold out
and the starter stays powered for around 20 seconds after the engine
starts. on warm days it still does the same thing but only for around 1
second. could you please help as i hate throwing expensive parts at a
problem trying to fix it.
jack47250: I have a 91 ford F-150 and replaced my Starter Solenoid and I believe I
tighten the bolts to much and cracked the solenoid would that cause it to
not function? And yes I know im a dumb ass for doing that
Darnell Avery: I have a 2000 crown victoria 155, 000 miles I started it today but it idled
low and cut off I turned the car on and off when it did it again and
repeated the cut on and off several times before the car stopped all
together no clicking noise nothing just the sound of the fuel pump and
bright red brake light everytime I turn the key.... also the car isn't on a
hill nor emergency brake isn't usually applied. .. help please
Daniel Gibson: I am having problems with a 1992 Ford F150. I turned the key over to start
the truck and got a single click. I took the starter off to test it and it
kicked out and spun. I replaced the solenoid. I am still gettin a single
click when I try to start the truck. Does anyone have any ideas of what I
can do to fix this? please help? This is my only way back and forth to
tom gibson: I have a 1996 T Bird 3.8L auto. When I turn the key the lights go out and
all electric to the dash drops off but no clicking or any sounds at all,
just nothing. The lights have always gone out as does the dash electric.
This "nothing " condition has happened a few times over the last 2 years.
The starter was replaced the first time it happened. Then a few months
later it happened again. Usually when it happens I just jump in the truck
and magically a day later maybe a few hours later the car will start right
up with no problems. When it happened last month I put a new battery in as
the old one was 7 years old. It happened again tonight while I was away
from home. .. Could it be a faulty starter solenoid? I'll tear into it when
it gets light outside but need a pointer or two if available. Thanks
Dave Nevotti: Great information, I have a 93 F-250 7.5l. Just started having a no start
issue, the info. in your you tube video helped solve the problem. Thanks
ThomasTechCon: @Wellstech Thanks for the quick response! I've taken battery, firewall
relay, cable harness, and starter assembly out of the F-150. There's some
corrosion on the negative battery cable, so I'm cleaning that up then will
reassemble on a test bench and try it out. Will give you a call if it still
doesn't make sense. Thanks again for all your help! Mark Thomas Thomas
Wells VE: Great Thanks for the update! Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: Thank you for the kind words. If you need assistance, please let us know,
Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Bernadine Trujillo: @67FordRanchWagon also the cables get eccesivly hot while trying to start
Wells VE: The light green / yellow wire fron the relay is grounded at the computer to
activate the starter on the 3.9 engine. Not sure what engine you have. What
might work best is if you click on the link in the description and you will
go to our website. There you can leave a question for the tech department
and we can send you the wiring diagram. Or you can call us and we will help
you diagnose it. 1-800-558-9770 Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Sam De. Blah Blah: My buddy and I are having problems with his 2001 ford f250. we start the
thing and it doesn't even make a noise. it was working a second ago but it
suddenly just stopped after we had breakfast. We are almost sure it is the
starter but I think it's the cable between the fuse box and the starter,
Wells VE: A solenoid is just a connection from the battery to the starter. Use a
jumper cable and connect one end to the starter and tap the other end to
battery possitive. When you do this the starter should crank. When the
solenoid clicks it means it is working 99.9% of the time. When you jump
this make sure the transmission is in park or nuetral!!! Mark Hicks Wells
afjrotc20041: the rapid clicking from the solenoid is what my Mustang is doing, video
just gave me a huge push in the right direction. I am just trying to
distinguish between the first series of clicking and the one after, they
sound the same.
Wells VE: @blueskymut Yes it is the wrong application. Starter relays are meant to
carry a heavy load for a short period of time and then have at least a 30
minute cool down time. On our website under the tech / testing specs and
diagrams, there is a listing of all the solenoids in our line. I would
suggest an intermittent or continuous duty solenoid. If you know the
amperage draw, give us a call and we can suggest a few regular relays that
may work. 1-800-558-9770 Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Brian Radom: Hoping that this video is still being visited WOW if we could discuss this:
My 1982 ford wagon wound up in storage for two years untouched outside
mainly sickness in the family, I at last had the time to bring it home VERY
happy to have old perfect back. troubles began weeks later. seafoam
detergent seemed to get it going again (to be continued)
mudsharkable: Your most probably right, Fiddled with it some more and now I get nothing!
Had to screwdriver start the car and took it straight to my mechanic...
I'll let him figure things out, he's has lots of experience with this sort
of stuff. Thanks for your insight and help.
Wells VE: IF you get one click and the starter does not engage, it means either the
battery is low, a bad connection to the battery, bad battery cable, bad
connection on the starter or a bad starter. When it does not start, turn on
the headlights, when they are on try to start it. If they go out at that
time, check your cables and battery. If they stay bright, check the
connection on the starter and starter. If the connection looks good, try
tapping on the starter with a small hammer while the key is
Wells VE: It sounds like you now have a bad connection on the battery. Turn the
lights on and wiggle the connections to the battery. When the lights turn
on you have found the terminal with the bad connection. First test the
battery to make sure you have 12 volts. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle
Leta Robinson: Thank you so much for this valuable video! Today I replaced my starter
solenoid, YEAH, with watching the video & reviewing the instructions that
came with the part! I'm a mom trying to make it and never thought I could
fix my car. It was simplier than I feared. I gained some confidence and
save some money. I think I'll do the chicken dance. :)
rlinarte1071: Wells VE , Hello,I am having the same problem with my 2001 Ford
Expedition,I've changed the Solenoid,starter and starter switch,problems
are lights on dashboard,odometer lines - - - - - - - on when I get all
those car is just cranking but won't start,when lights go out from
dashboard and car starts and then starter gives a big crank,I checked the
"S" terminal and I'm getting voltage back,I left everything disconnected
because lights stayed on an dashboard.....thanks for your help
codenamelibra: Q: 91 crown vic relay periodic sticks & starter runs even with "S" wire
off; "I" relay post not used. Bump relay w/ hard object to stop it; then ok
for a while. ST404 relay changed 4x in 2 years and starter 1x last year. 2
fixes found, T or F: 1 - cross relay low-current posts with diode; 2 -
ditto with a diode shunt to ground on high-current relay post feeding
starter to prevent backlash arcing which rapidly ages relay. Advise HOW to
do #2 if true, as well #1, and what size diodes / R-C shunt ?
heyahiya: Thank you for such a great informative video! You confirmed that my dad and
I are on the right path for fixing my van.
BalGreene: Thanks for the excellent video. Although I ran out and got one, the video
saved me from installing a new relay/solenoid when really the battery was
Wells VE: LOL I love it! Thanks Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: @ThomasTechCon Either you have a bad connection, bad battery, or using the
wrong gauge wire. The relay clicks because there is not enough current to
hold it engaged. It is possible, because the cables are getting too hot the
starter is drawing too much current also. Please feel free to give us a
free call at 1-800-558-9770 press 3 for the tech department. We are more
than happy to help. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Jason Zeidler: i have a 71 ford mustang. I replaced the solenoid earlier, but then
replaced the starter. it worked great for awhile now it wont start. all i
hear his clicking from the solenoid. i have new battery in. is there away
to bypass the solenoid completly and start the car to test the starter?
mike levesque: 1996 f 350 7.3 diesel. clicks when turning over. noticed i have two
solenoids/replay on the pass side fender, only one clicks. changed out the
one that doesn't click with new one. still nothing. hit starter with
hammer, still not starting.any idea?
Adrian Skywalker: Great video. I've got a problem with exactly this solenoid on my '87 XR4Ti.
Trouble is I can't really get them in Europe(Romania), so I replaced it
with a similar solenoid, but not original. I only wonder why does Ford US
use this design and not the simpler solenoid-on-starter design that Ford of
Europe and pretty much everybody else uses? How is this any better? Good
day to you!
Wells VE: This is a great question! To be honest I am not sure. All I can think of is
it might have something to do with the length of the cable. By putting a
solenoid in the middle you end up with two shorter cables and not a very
long cable. By doing this I would think your voltage drop would be
lessened. If you have any ideas or thoughts I would love to hear them. Mark
Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Glendora Black: need one for a 1987 ford ranger it has different wiring and lots of it also
need the color code on all. some help
Wells VE: @67FordRanchWagon The color of the coating on the cable should not matter,
as long as the gauge is correct. The small wire, does it have voltage when
you turn the key to the start position? Is it connected to the "S"
terminal? If you try jumping from the battery positive to the "S" terminal
of the solenoid, what happens? Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: Thanks for your comments on our Ford Starter Solenoid video. Feedback helps
and makes this worthwhile for us. We are glad you found it helpful. Others
apparently have too. Yesterday was a record for us with over 2300 views in
one day! We now have had over 600,000 views of our technical and diagnostic
Wells VE: On a normal vehicle with normal compression there should be no need for a
diode set up. Are you running higher compression. Why is the starter
darwing so much current? In this case I would suggest going to a solenoid
made to handle the extra draw. On our website there is a solenoid search
available. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
csedan510: Another development, I went to move it last night, got it to fire after
jiggling the solenoid, when I went to turn the headlights on, everything
shut off. Light relay too maybe?
codenamelibra: Thanks Mark. Your diagram shows the snubbing diode for the relay's signal
(low-current) side. But again my dilemma is with rapid contact aging on the
contact (high-current) side caused by starter backlash current contact
arcing. All of the chat around on the net on this subject shows that folks
aren't clear on the difference. Setups exist for relay-controlled motors
(e.g. forklift), but I don't see a ready made solution for car starters.
Weird since far more cars around than forklifts.
Wells VE: @heliraisers9 Have you checked the starter relay? It located on the right
front fender apron, near the battery. If you need any further assistance
let me know, Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: AutoZone does sell solenoids at different quality levels. If you had issues
with the least expensive solenoid, I suggest purchasing a higher quality
one from AutoZone. another consideration is the quality of the starter. If
the starter is drawing too many amps, it can cause the solenoid to lock up.
Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: Thank you for the kind words. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: @afjrotc20041 We are happy the video was a help for you. When you are
hearing a rapid click from the solenoid it means either the battery is low
in charge or you have a bad cable or connection on the battery or solenoid.
I am not sure what you mean by the first series of clicking and the
clicking after. If the clicking first or after is coming from the solenoid
search it out as stated above. Try turning the headlights "on" and cranking
the engine. If the headlight go very dim or "out"
daspooten: I have a 97 ford ranger that is having some starting problems. I get in my
truck to go to work and it starts. Then pick up a work buddy on my way to
work and go to try and start it I get one click. So we push start it so we
can get to work. Then we get off and bam starts right up. Then I get back
home turn it off then try to restart it and get the one click. I just need
to get some input before I spend a fortune buying things that don't work.
hp11208: Good video.
ThomasTechCon: Thanks for the video and especially the comments. My shop manual was
sending me in circles, calling both the relay mounted on the firewall and
the cylinder mounted on the side of the starter motor the "solenoid". Do
these two components perform the same job, just taking two steps up in
current? The firewall mounted relay on my 98 F-150 has a connector as shown
at 4:29 in your video--a heavy gauge line comes from the positive terminal
on the battery, and a much smaller red wire to the starter.
igotapochahontas: ive seen people test the solenoid by doing something with a screwdriver
touching the solenoid. what where they doing?
codenamelibra: Hi Mark, starter cables are new and purposely fatter than stock. 2 factory
ground straps block to frame are green from years of a slow anti-freeze
leak, but still seem malleable. Added a new thick starter cable as an
additional ground. Computer disconnected, universal holley carb w/ no
computer, aftermarket MSD ignition. Convergence point for multiple harness
connections is the battery post of the starter relay. Again, how to
configure backlash arc protection on the relay's starter side ?
SaDizTiKHiTmAn: I bypassed the solenoid with a screwdriver and it started right up, however
after a day this method no longer worked and im out of ideas thinking its a
bad wire somewere or a ground any ideas?
Wells VE: the results from this test, let me know and I will help you with the next
step if needed. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics