Wells VE: I need help. I have an 87 f150 and I put a new solenoid on it and every
time I go to hook the battery up the truck tries cranking it self..I'm only
14 and I have no one to help me do this.
Thomas Salley: Hi There, Nice Video. I have a 1990 Ford f250 with a 460. I have problems
with starting. When the engine is cold, the starter turns good and starts
up. After running the engine to temp, if i try to start, sometimes the
starter sounds sluggish. sometimes it will crank and sometimes it will
barely turn over. Battery was tested and good. i have replaced the starter,
ignition coil, and ignition switch. i have heard that the 460s have heat
sink, where the engine heat is absorbed by the starter. I have wrapped the
starter in heat shield, but it does not seem to make much difference. My
next step was going to be to upgrade from 4 gauge to 1/0 batter cable, and
also wrap the headers. any thoughts anyone?
Msr roa: I have a '86 f150 really starting to boggle me, should be so simple. I
turned it off one day and when i returned it just clicked , not once, but
multi times, like it does with a low battery. I have a new battery and just
checked the voltage 12.48v i replaced the solenoid, had the starter checked
, was told it =was bad, but think they didn't know what they were doing,
replaced the battery was still under warranty. I'm curious as to how to
check the cables for resistance not sure if the voltage drop test will
work or not, since i'm not getting any noise at the starter , almost like
my voltage is stopping at the solenoid I suspect the ground or positive
cable form the negative battery terminal and from the solenoid . I cleaned
and checked all the connections, everything appears to look ok please help
G pa: No one has figured this one out. I hope you can.
2001 F-150 4.6 Automatic.
Normal day temps in 40's plus.. no problems.
If it rains, before key is even in the ignition, the odometer has dashes
across it, dummy lights are on. Put in key and try to start and it just
turns over. Take the pos off the batt and put it right back on and truck
starts fine. If it is still raining the radio is dead, no lights, time,
nothing. Heat AC blower works fine. Windshield wipers won't turn on unless
trans is moved to N, turn them on then they will work. They just won't shut
back off unless put in N, turn off.
When it gets real cold, like now below 30, it does the same stuff but also
the starter will keep re-engaging, it cycles on and off, in P or N but not
when in D or R.
What do you think?
Papito Papito: I need help my father in laws 1999 f150 will start and drive for about 5 to
10 minutes than it will die after he uses a screw driver to short out the
solenoid (I think) it will go on for another 5 to 10 minutes and it will
ChyAnne Micah: so I have a 1991 ford f150 xlt lariat 351c truck and it has issues
starting, I try to start it and the solenoid just clicks. but I have
replaced the solenoid, the starter, and the ignition switch. but I noticed
in this video it says that the positive battery cable and all other things
besides the starter cable go on the port that is next to the batter. when I
bought the truck, the guy who I bought it from said there was just problems
with the solenoid, but the cords were backwards. the cable going to the
starter is closest to the battery and that is how it was when I bought it.
so I reconnected the new one the same way and it still clicks. advice? and
are the cables the wrong way? because it starts when I use a screwdriver.
Todd Smith: I have a 1990 F150 with a 302.When I turn the key to the start position, I
can hear the fuel pump engage and all the normal lights on the dash come
on, but that is it. I have taken a screw driver and connected the two large
posts on the solenoid and it starts just fine. The truck does have a manual
transmission. Any ideas?
Jerry Braun: How professional ! Best video I have seen on You Tube for instruction. I
arc'd or jumped my solenoid with a screw driver, big post to big post,
and with key in on position, it starts up, so I think it is solenoid issue
(only clunks once with just key turn, and no jumper to help). I am going
to replace mine today, and thought I would search out any nuances, and I
got a nice education in the process. I probably would have just
disconnected and reconnected to same posts as shown, but glad to see there
is nothing else to consider, yet.
Randy Wyant: I recently replaced by starter and solenoid, also the transmission. after
I finished hooking it up., it started fine., but, I noticed that my gauges
were kind of screwy.... the temp guage rose fast., fuel guage is reading
full., the other gauges are suspect,,, after it runs for a few minutes I
flipped on the headlights and the van died.. do you have any ideas to
Terri Nelson: Hi I have a 92 ford explorer. ...It wouldn't start just clicked once.
..changed the starter, solenoid, and positive cable from battery to
starter...now it starts but starter won't disengage. ..help please
Dirtyblac: I have a '86 Ford F-150 somehow my starter wont disengage... I changed the
solenoid and brought a brand new starter... every time I plug up the
negative post to the battery the starter trys to crank the truck without
the keys..should i buy a new ignition switch or look for wiring problems..
Nafir Alvarez: My solenoid clicks but Ford truck wont start. Batteries good and so is wire
from ignition to solenoid. I got a screw driver and did the old solenoid
trick connecting the 2 bolts and turning the ignition on but no start. Do I
have a bad Solenoid?
Ricky Farmer: i have a 02 ford f-150 replaced the solenoid on it because it just wouldnt
do anything. After putting a new solenoid on the starter was hanging bad
and you could start to smell so i also put a new started on it. After the
new starter got on it is still hanging up after it is started i put a test
light on the wire that goes to the s post and it lights up when key is
turned and goes off when you let the key off. Could it be i just got a bad
solenoid or does the starter need to be shimmed or what please give me some
advice as i'm lost....
KEYSERSOZE1965: Also Mark, is it possible that the engine will not crank when I turn the
key if the KEY ITSELF is bad, as if the chip inside has worn out???
Adam Cooper: Im 15 and i gotta 91 Ranger with a 4 banger engine with a 5 speed manual.
it was just handed down to me and has been sitting for about a year. i
charged the battery and all and attempted to start it (foot on clutch etc.)
the truck just clicked. it tried to turn over but couldnt make it. could it
sivaraj palanisamy: is there any way i can bypass solenoid to test starter in car.
Jared Whitman: I have a 78 Ford F100. Drove the truck to work today and as I was leaving
my home it stalled on me. Lately it has been having a little trouble when
I start it up in the morning after sitting overnight and I'll need to give
it some gas a couple times to keep it from stalling. When I went to leave
work I was getting the loud clicking noise from the solenoid exactly like
in your video. I was ready to go out and get a new starter until I watched
this. Does it sound to you like my issue is just a poor connection/low
charge on my battery? My commute to work is only about 4 miles and is all
city driving (nothing over 35mph usually), should I worry about my battery
going dead on me? Thanks!
KEYSERSOZE1965: Hi mark, I have a 2000 Ford Ranger. Over the last week there were times
that the truck did not want to crank, it would not do ANYTHING. and then it
would crank fine. I took it to Autozone and had them test the battery to
find out that the battery was bad. They replaced the battery and the truck
started up fine with one crank. Since then however the truck has not
cranked at all. I have power, the battery works, the starter is no less
than 3 months old and everything APPEARS to be in working order. I can turn
the key for the ignition but all I here is a slight whirring noise and a
small click around the power distribution box. The engine will not crank,
absolutely nothing. What could be the problem? i
I should note the solenoid was not replaced when the starter was replaced
back in January. Could this be the problem or does it sound like something
else? Please Help!!!
Nate Balcom: Hi Mark. I had a single click from the solenoid with no crank and no
start. Following your comments, I jumped from solenoid to starter and was
able to get starter to crank. I then disconnected jumper and it now starts
when I turn the key but it is very sensitive and seems to only start just
before I hear a single click from the solenoid, sometimes starts, sometimes
it doesn't and I hear 1 click when it doesn't. Any ideas? Battery seems
strong and lights don't dim out when I turn the key.
Chase Grubbs: I need help. I have an 87 f150 and I put a new solenoid on it and every
time I go to hook the battery up the truck tries cranking it self..I'm only
14 and I have no one to help me do this.
Gary Meyers: I'm having that clicking noise problem on a 2000 Ford Taurus. I kind of
drained my battery trying to start it when it was very cold outside. I
cranked the engine on and off for 5 minutes and eventually the clicking
started and then the car lights went out. I went and bought a 900 amp jump
started and tried to start the car. The lights inside the car worked with
the jump-starter, but when trying to start the engine, i hear that clicking
sound immediately and the car does not turn over at all. Could it be that
the jump-starter doesn't have enough power to start the car still? I would
think a 900amp jump starter could start a small v6 engine no problem. I
really hope I didn't ruin the starter by cranking it too much in the cold.
David G: Thanks for well done informative video. It helped me to diagnosis and
replace my solenoid. My old truck is up and running and ready for work.
sivaraj palanisamy: hi, what cause hitting hammer of starter working.. is it freeeing bendix,
or brush or anything else.. please advise.
catfishstinch: can a silenoid stick closed causing the starter to not not stop turning
once the engine is started? This only happens when it is really cold out
and the starter stays powered for around 20 seconds after the engine
starts. on warm days it still does the same thing but only for around 1
second. could you please help as i hate throwing expensive parts at a
problem trying to fix it.
Daniel Gibson: I am having problems with a 1992 Ford F150. I turned the key over to start
the truck and got a single click. I took the starter off to test it and it
kicked out and spun. I replaced the solenoid. I am still gettin a single
click when I try to start the truck. Does anyone have any ideas of what I
can do to fix this? please help? This is my only way back and forth to
Chris Arancibia: excellent video.
jack47250: I have a 91 ford F-150 and replaced my Starter Solenoid and I believe I
tighten the bolts to much and cracked the solenoid would that cause it to
not function? And yes I know im a dumb ass for doing that
Keithen Woody: I got a 2004 Ford F150.and i just put a new battery in.It work good for a
week but the following Monday it still wont start.What you think.Help...
Darnell Avery: I have a 2000 crown victoria 155, 000 miles I started it today but it idled
low and cut off I turned the car on and off when it did it again and
repeated the cut on and off several times before the car stopped all
together no clicking noise nothing just the sound of the fuel pump and
bright red brake light everytime I turn the key.... also the car isn't on a
hill nor emergency brake isn't usually applied. .. help please
Dave Nevotti: Great information, I have a 93 F-250 7.5l. Just started having a no start
issue, the info. in your you tube video helped solve the problem. Thanks
Keithen Woody: So if your so Solenoid is clicking.Then the problem aint the Solenoid?
tom gibson: I have a 1996 T Bird 3.8L auto. When I turn the key the lights go out and
all electric to the dash drops off but no clicking or any sounds at all,
just nothing. The lights have always gone out as does the dash electric.
This "nothing " condition has happened a few times over the last 2 years.
The starter was replaced the first time it happened. Then a few months
later it happened again. Usually when it happens I just jump in the truck
and magically a day later maybe a few hours later the car will start right
up with no problems. When it happened last month I put a new battery in as
the old one was 7 years old. It happened again tonight while I was away
from home. .. Could it be a faulty starter solenoid? I'll tear into it when
it gets light outside but need a pointer or two if available. Thanks
BsLEEzy506: Thanks for the vids they help alot.
ThomasTechCon: @Wellstech Thanks for the quick response! I've taken battery, firewall
relay, cable harness, and starter assembly out of the F-150. There's some
corrosion on the negative battery cable, so I'm cleaning that up then will
reassemble on a test bench and try it out. Will give you a call if it still
doesn't make sense. Thanks again for all your help! Mark Thomas Thomas
Wells VE: Great Thanks for the update! Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Wells VE: Thank you for the kind words. If you need assistance, please let us know,
Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Bernadine Trujillo: @67FordRanchWagon also the cables get eccesivly hot while trying to start
Wells VE: The light green / yellow wire fron the relay is grounded at the computer to
activate the starter on the 3.9 engine. Not sure what engine you have. What
might work best is if you click on the link in the description and you will
go to our website. There you can leave a question for the tech department
and we can send you the wiring diagram. Or you can call us and we will help
you diagnose it. 1-800-558-9770 Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Sam De. Blah Blah: My buddy and I are having problems with his 2001 ford f250. we start the
thing and it doesn't even make a noise. it was working a second ago but it
suddenly just stopped after we had breakfast. We are almost sure it is the
starter but I think it's the cable between the fuse box and the starter,
Wells VE: A solenoid is just a connection from the battery to the starter. Use a
jumper cable and connect one end to the starter and tap the other end to
battery possitive. When you do this the starter should crank. When the
solenoid clicks it means it is working 99.9% of the time. When you jump
this make sure the transmission is in park or nuetral!!! Mark Hicks Wells
afjrotc20041: the rapid clicking from the solenoid is what my Mustang is doing, video
just gave me a huge push in the right direction. I am just trying to
distinguish between the first series of clicking and the one after, they
sound the same.
Wells VE: @blueskymut Yes it is the wrong application. Starter relays are meant to
carry a heavy load for a short period of time and then have at least a 30
minute cool down time. On our website under the tech / testing specs and
diagrams, there is a listing of all the solenoids in our line. I would
suggest an intermittent or continuous duty solenoid. If you know the
amperage draw, give us a call and we can suggest a few regular relays that
may work. 1-800-558-9770 Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle Electronics
Brian Radom: Hoping that this video is still being visited WOW if we could discuss this:
My 1982 ford wagon wound up in storage for two years untouched outside
mainly sickness in the family, I at last had the time to bring it home VERY
happy to have old perfect back. troubles began weeks later. seafoam
detergent seemed to get it going again (to be continued)
Billy Stephens: Your most probably right, Fiddled with it some more and now I get nothing!
Had to screwdriver start the car and took it straight to my mechanic...
I'll let him figure things out, he's has lots of experience with this sort
of stuff. Thanks for your insight and help.
Wells VE: IF you get one click and the starter does not engage, it means either the
battery is low, a bad connection to the battery, bad battery cable, bad
connection on the starter or a bad starter. When it does not start, turn on
the headlights, when they are on try to start it. If they go out at that
time, check your cables and battery. If they stay bright, check the
connection on the starter and starter. If the connection looks good, try
tapping on the starter with a small hammer while the key is
Wells VE: It sounds like you now have a bad connection on the battery. Turn the
lights on and wiggle the connections to the battery. When the lights turn
on you have found the terminal with the bad connection. First test the
battery to make sure you have 12 volts. Mark Hicks Wells Vehicle
Leta Robinson: Thank you so much for this valuable video! Today I replaced my starter
solenoid, YEAH, with watching the video & reviewing the instructions that
came with the part! I'm a mom trying to make it and never thought I could
fix my car. It was simplier than I feared. I gained some confidence and
save some money. I think I'll do the chicken dance. :)
rlinarte1071: Wells VE , Hello,I am having the same problem with my 2001 Ford
Expedition,I've changed the Solenoid,starter and starter switch,problems
are lights on dashboard,odometer lines - - - - - - - on when I get all
those car is just cranking but won't start,when lights go out from
dashboard and car starts and then starter gives a big crank,I checked the
"S" terminal and I'm getting voltage back,I left everything disconnected
because lights stayed on an dashboard.....thanks for your help
codenamelibra: Q: 91 crown vic relay periodic sticks & starter runs even with "S" wire
off; "I" relay post not used. Bump relay w/ hard object to stop it; then ok
for a while. ST404 relay changed 4x in 2 years and starter 1x last year. 2
fixes found, T or F: 1 - cross relay low-current posts with diode; 2 -
ditto with a diode shunt to ground on high-current relay post feeding
starter to prevent backlash arcing which rapidly ages relay. Advise HOW to
do #2 if true, as well #1, and what size diodes / R-C shunt ?
heyahiya: Thank you for such a great informative video! You confirmed that my dad and
I are on the right path for fixing my van.