tom oli: the new spark plug looks a bit longer then the one that u removed..
tarek osman: great work
will wal: Ok so the plugs do not break like the 3 valve?
Eliran Lugassy: very informative, great video! you have my subscription!
toro100005: Thanks for taking the time to make this video I appreciate that
toro100005: Very useful
briansmobile1: Thanks. I do try to get things right. I'm also open to constructive criticism and learning where ever I can. I appreciate your efforts! Thank you!
molybednum90: That was very well stated. You are totally accurate about the flow of energy between the plug and the coil spring in the boot. My compliments.
briansmobile1: I know it sounds stupid or sissy, but no one cares how much you know until they know how much you care about them. You really can't teach anyone anything unless they trust you. No one will trust you if they feel you don't like them. If you tell some one they're dumb, wrong, foolish, etc they will not like you. This will never help you or them. It isolates you from learning from each other due to pride.
briansmobile1: It's impossible to know what others know unless you build a relationship of trust that fosters honesty and only then can you ask them what they know and then they will tell you honestly what they do or do not know. On the other hand telling someone they don't know something makes you look bad. It fosters ill will and contention that hinders learning even more than dielectric grease hinders electron flow. Ideally you want electron flow only between the coil spring and the top of the spark plug.
molybednum90: You really do not understand the physics here. The grease impedes the flow of electric energy. Reduction of electron flow reduces power. The fact that you have assembled something and it appears to work does not mean you have it right. The only difference is knowing the difference and you do not.
Dustin Wilson: Reduction of "electron flow" will result in preventing the electrons from going where you don't want them to go. briansmobile1 is absolutely correct, corrosion prevention. Using the dielectric grease will keep moisture / water out and protect the metal. The metal will make proper connection with the other metal resulting in a solid connection, regardless of the dielectric grease. We never make a connection without it on Remotely Operated Vehicles operating -12,000 ft deep in the ocean.
briansmobile1: Welcome Dustin!
Dustin Wilson: Awesome video! Informative and brief. I'll be doing this tomorrow to clear my P0174 & P0308 codes. 2004 F150 5.4L Triton V8; 137,000 miles. Truck has been struggling in the 50-60 mph range. It was struggling without throwing a check engine light for weeks...I put the pedal to the medal to induce problem more solid which resulted in check engine light finally coming on, which allowed me to retrieve my codes. Thanks for the tutorial, very helpful.
CplChronic: Here's a challenge: Show the job on Cyl 4 or 10. lol It's possible to do it without removing the fuel rail. Awkward, but possible. I did have to use a flex extension to remove the coil pack bolt on cyl 9 and 10, but straight extensions on everything else.
CplChronic: Yes, great tip. I did my coil and fuel injector connections too while I was at it.
CplChronic: I just changed the plugs on my truck: '01 F-250 4X with the 5.4. It's 12 yrs old with 86,000 on it. The bolts and plugs came out easy on mine. Thankfully. All I can say is, put some never seize on the threads when you put them back.
Pickinbuddy: Good video Brian... What is your opinion on Iridium tipped spark plugs compared to the Platinum ones?
logskidder1234: I use dielectric grease on every single electrical component......not for conductive advantage, but for corrosion resistance......excellent tip!
Starliner428: Good job with the video - thanks for posting it. I'm still nervous about changing out my '02 4.6L plugs at 125k. My son got it from Ohio then needed a "loan" from Dad. Mucho salt. Mucho rust. Might have to pull the coils and let some Kroil and PBblaster soak in the tubes for a week or two. Wish me luck.
briansmobile1: Sage advice my friend- thanks for the wisdom!
04GT40th: Be careful removing the coils, just did a tune-up on a 2003 F150 with the 5.4 Triton and had a rusted coil bolt snap off in the intake (why the coils aren't stud mounted baffles me). Not fun trying to get a broken bolt out of a plastic intake. Use PB blaster or Liquid Wrench on any bolts you are trying to remove, it's worth it in the long run!
X Kal: Nice job look real simple
Enrique Gonzalez: Good video dude 1st time i changed the spark plugs on my f150 5.4 i also took out the fuel rail wich means the fuel injectors came out too oh i hate those little o rings i could not get them ti stay on the injectors when i put them back any ways i learned from thanks good video..
cooljoescott: Great video, you made it look real easy. Thank you.
eric j: nope its "coil over" thats why it is called a "COP" meaning "coil over plug"
bazzline85: Hey Brian, my name is Mike and my truck is a 2000 5.4 Triton and I'm thinking of adding another 2.5 to 3" lift using a torsion key. I bought it used and its got some lift to it right now. I wanted to find out whether this is a stock lift and if it is am I still able to lift it using the torsion keys. I don't want to use any kits at this time. Thanks.
John Hall: I enjoyed your video. Very helpful, great quality video, and thanks for taking the time to slow down and explain!!!
Geri Sullivan: My truck needs help...are you located in Missouri?
Eric Smith: Great Job" Thanks
Danny B: Isnt it coil on, not coil over (as in suspension)?
SUZUKlRlDER: Is this the same as the 4.6l?
Tim W: Pulled all but #7 and #8. Having a difficult time getting the fuel injector rail pulled. Applied moderate strength pulling from where they enter manifold. Please advise.
Also, bought the boot/ spring sets, but the electrodes did not come with. Asks the parts dealer and he said they no longer use the electrodes. I would have used the old ones, but one wasn't in the spring that I pulled for #4. Are the electrodes required?
Finally, thanks for the video on towing a Town and Country.
sslicker1: great work and very helpful, I got a ford explorer 2002 limited 4.6L V8 can you please tell me the spark plug sequence 1 to 8.
thanks in advance
briansmobile1: As long as it hasn't been salted you'll most likely be fine.
deelong4002: I'm about to replace the injectors, plugs and COP's on my 2000 Lariat 5.4 with 160K on the clock. I've owned since it had 114k, and this will be the first set of plugs i've put in it, and I'm not sure about anything before that. Plan to get all the COP's off, and soak the plugs with PB blaster for a couple of days. What are my chances I'm not going to destroy my heads getting these plugs out? I'm a seasoned weekend warrior mechanic. I've only heard horror stories about this job.
murmaider2: I noticed you've mentioned fuel injector cleaners causing build up and loss of compressor, does lucas oil fall into this category?
ljw2896: Qeustion Ford dealer is charging me $329.00 plus tax to change spark plugs in my 2002 F250 is that about right as far as pricing goes thanks
jason Costa: I liked your video it helped me out a lot.
josh552233: Bank 1 is passenger side on triton f150s
Malcolm Logan: Hey. How do u replace the spark plug grommets
MrSeeker2013: I have read around on the internet, some people have said that its okay just to burn it, what do you think? I am trying to think what is the worse case scenario: a little bit of rubber gunk clogging up my number 8 piston... but it should clean itself out right?
Thanks in advance
MrSeeker2013: I used an inspection mirror, and even a piece of gum on the end of a straw and tried to find the oring in case it fell in the injector hole, but couldn't see anything. But I suspect at least a part of it fell in, maybe 2/3 of it, although more than likely it fell down somewhere else b/c the 1/3 part was off to the side... ANYWAYS, worse case scenario is that I have about half an inch of small oring in there (btw I bought a compressor and have been blowing every half hour)
1st of all, THANK YOU. you have inspired me to do a lot of my own work. BUT i have a problem and need your advice.I am working on a tune up for a 99 f250 light duty, 5.4 triton bifuel engine. I HAD to remove the fuel railS (both cng and gasonline) in order to access the CoPs. While I had the fuel system out, I decided to clean the injectors and cng sleeve, and replace all orings. Trying to get it all back in, one of the orings broke off, and I only found about 1/3 of it
molybednum90: Very good indeed. You are probably not surprised but a lot of people think this is "conductive" when it is not. The Dielectric grease keeps the spark from leaking down the insulator as well. Excellent video and technical accuracy.
onlinemartinez: Thank You! very informative. I have a 2000 e150 with 112k miles and I'm about to replace all the spark plugs and coils. your video will help a LOT.
briansmobile1: You're right. It is non conductive. It gets scraped off by the plug wire side where it makes contact and prevents corrosion everywhere else. Corrosion is worse because it penetrates even where that critical contact is.
molybednum90: That was really good right up to the part where the "dielectric" grease was applied to the tip of the spark plug. That grease is only used on the ceramic tower on the plug and "NOT" on the tip that connects to the ignition coil. You see, "dielectric" is non conducting. By putting that on the tip that connects to the coil you actually reduce the flow of electrons.
CheezyDee: Many moons ago I had a 92 Crown Vic with a 4.6, and I made a couple tools for it. Since I didn't have a compressor I made a vacuum attachment out of some 3/4" OD tubing and lots of duct tape to fit the hose. I'd suck up all the dirt around the boots, and when I got the plug wires off I had the option of jamming the tube down into the spark plug well to get anything that fell in. I also welded a cheap spark plug socket to a long extension so I didn't have to worry about losing the socket.