Chevy 5.3 Liter Lifter Noise And Motor Flush Solution How To




What do you think about this video?

Jake88chevy: I have that same noise but only when I'm n gear and driving but not when at idle only when I'm driving my question is should I do a motor flush? 

chris42000000: I got this problem when engine is cold, over 400k now 

Greg77630: 2004 chevy suburban1500 5.3L flex fuel - I followed this but still have the ticking. Do I need to replace the lifter or should I pull the lifter out and clean it? If I replace it do I also need to replace the push rods (the existing ones look fine)?

TONYLOVE1: I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L V-8 Vortec. I use synthetic 5W30 Mobil or Pennzoil full synthetic. This is due to the engines design having tighter clearances for oil to move around. Every other oil change I use Marvel Mystery Oil in place of one quart. Keeps things clean and well lubed.

I also add 6oz to a full tank to keep my fuel system working well. 10 years 172972 miles ZERO ISSUES.

Robert Shellhouse: what was the oil pressure at the time ?  I have that same noise but oil pressure is zero.... thoughts?

ronnie bock: Brian.  Thanks for the the video.  I have that EXACT sound, but..... mine seems intermittent and is accompanied by a hard start/rough idle.  Any ideas on that one.  I have a theory, but I'll save it to avoid looking like a jerk..haha.

zack mobley: I have a 2004 chevy Silverado 1500 5.3L and it is making the same noise. I noticed to noise one day going to work. I been to a cupple shops and they cant seem to figure out what it is. would I use the motor cleaner or could I use trans fluid and do the same thing??

Fernando Cabrera: Did you use new valve cover gaskets?

alfred delsole: Sorry,I am a tech at a Chevy dealer and have run in to this problem half a dozen times, it is an issue with the cam,and apparently the lobes on the can loose their hardening or flourine coating from having untrained people changing your oil and putting the wrong waite oil in it causes the cam to get mauled and the bottom of the lifter becomes concaved,it only happens to the rear 2 cylander cam lobes,basically what your seeing in this video is misleading and not a part of any kind of auto technician training,sorry to say its some guy just making a video to hear himself talk,this video will actually cost you more money than nessessary in the long run because iff you take the MDI scan tool that gm uses you will see a misfire on the rear cylanders on the scope,after stressing each coil and doing manual compression with a gauge you will see which cylander has the misfire hense the annoying valve tap,spend the extra money and bring your vehicle to a gm technician so you don't pay for a partial disassembly,oil change,and flush,when all this motor needs is to be disassembled with heads cam and lifters removed,and reassemble with 2 new lifters head gaskets and cam.iff you notice even after this guy reassembles the motor,the problem can still be heard.sorry for the people that waisted money on what they saw and heard in this video.

frank whitney: Check to see if you have s tech heads they're bad

huronhockey8: A video review on sea foam would be pretty cool. What are your opinions on the use of this stuff? It sounds pretty heavenly and a solution to a lot of man hours and problems.

treluvsjay1: Hey Brian thanks for providing us the public with great Repair Videos! Anyway had a question for ya, I have a 95 Honda Accord V6 well every time I first start the Car for the day I can hear the Hydraulic Lifters tapping very loudly. Honda switched from a solid valve train to hydraulic lifters for these V6 models in 95 thru 97 so they can't be Adjusted. Well when the car warms up the tapping completely stops and I don't hear it again until after the car has sat for about 4 or 5 hours. I've tried seafoam in the Crank case numerous times and also a product called justice brothers engine tune that suppose to quiet noisy lifters and have had NO luck. What do I do!!??

Chris Henson: motor flushes are bad you will break sludge loose that wont dissolve all the way and and you will end up killing your oil pump at the very least

wafrederick: If you see orange goo inside the valve cover after pulling the valve cover,heads are junk.Crack around the middle headbolt hole allowing coolant in.

The Philosophating Phrog: I work on 5.3 and 6 liter gm motors all the time and we replace the oil pump because they go bad all the time. I would replace the oil pressure sending unit as well since they go bad all the time as well. The tick will go away I will guarantee you that. 

dharleyguy: I was going to try this method on a 2002 Silverado I just bought. So I removed the drivers side rockers. I found one rocker on the front cylinder, with a lot more wear at the push rod side of the rocker than all the rest. Replaced the rocker and push rod..and bobs your uncle. So inspect all your parts before you put your engine back together because cleaning your lifters will not fix a worn out part...

knightfive: my question is when you go to retighten the valves, do you have to adjust or just tighten them up? What about torque?

Servando Leal: Also not many miles only 99,600 ish 

Servando Leal: Hi I have a 2006 izuzu ascender I was told it has the same engine described here it has the same noise but I was told it was losing compression on cylinder four which to my understanding is on the left but the noise seems to be on the right same side as this video can anyone help me as to what I can do. Should I try this?

Joe Johnson: I never liked motor flushes because it can create oil leaks and do damage. You are doing unnecessary work. Change the oil and add a pint of Marvels Mystery oil and change the oil in 500 miles again. In less than 500 miles the noise will go away unless the lifter or cam is worn. Changing the oil and substituting one quart of ATF works also.

Chef de NYC: Thanks! I'm more info ultrasound type of work. I learn most of the stuff myself online. Just only recently start looking for a school to make things "official". Hehe
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